Month: March 2012

Chile 6: Santiago

Simon

Simon and Ang, who were the first to arrive at the Bariloche pit stop at 6pm, received their next clue at 6am.  They were to make their way back across the border to Puerto Montt via bus. After reading the clue, the team left their accommodation and jumped into a taxi. A quick ride to the bus terminal and they were soon on a bus heading back over the Andes and once more west.

The Argentine border crossing passed quickly and the team enjoyed the marvellous scenery on the bus ride between the Argentine and Chilean borders. Arriving at the Chilean side, they were lined up with the other passengers whilst the sniffer dog did its thing for illegal food and drugs on people and in bags. Unfortunately the Chilean customs official was not as thorough as his dog and while chatting to a traveller, missed the paw on one lady’s bag. Simon and Ang were forced to discard a carrot, but were lucky the dog didn’t get stuck into their enormous haul of chocolate.

Back on the bus and the rest of the trip to Puerto Montt passed without incident. At the bus station they were given their next clue. They were to make their way to Santiago where they were to check into the Bella Vista Hostel. The clue said that there was an interchange ahead.  An interchange is where two separate Amazing Exclusive Race teams join together to complete a challenge.

Simon and Ang were both excited at the prospect of meeting up with another Exclusive race team and were looking forward to visiting Santiago. They weren’t looking forward to a 36 hour bus ride, and knowing that they were racing to win they decided to purchase flights.  Running to a nearby Sky Airlines office, they picked up last minute flights for not much more than the cost of a bus trip for that evening.

While they waited out the time to head to the airport, they sat in a friendly karaoke bar and amazed the locals with their Australian accented Spanish. A few hours later it was time to leave Puerto Montt, so they collected their bags from the bus station and raced to the airport for a quick multiple stop milk run of a flight up Chile to Santiago.

Arriving in Santiago, they raced out of the airport and straight to a taxi for the quick ride into the city centre  and onto the suburb of Bella Vista. There they checked into the Bella Vista hostel and were given a room for the night as the interchange would not begin until the other team arrived later the next day.

Waking, they checked out Santiago on the free walking tour, and in the afternoon headed back to the accommodation to begin the interchange. There they were reunited with none other than Team Ireland. The teams had not seen each other since Colombia. After they had a chance to catch up, the two teams were provided with the interchange challenge. They both were to attend a BBQ party that evening with hostel-residing Chileans and party as they do.

Panorama of Santiago city
The presidential palace, Santiago
Conquistador founder of Santiago

Both teams were excited by the challenge and decided to have some pre drinks and get some additional supplies for the evening. The actual party was a blur and at around 4am the team found themselves in back in their room and were soon sleeping.

Waking at 10:30 am for checkout at 11:00, it was clear that this would be an enforced rest day. Ang was not capable of moving and Simon was just as seedy. Meeting Tarun from Team Ireland, the two teams waited in the reception foyer until it became clear that Ang could not move away from the bucket. With Ang checked back in to the hostel, only this time being forced to serve out a penalt, being a single bed in a 16 bed dorm for the team to share, Simon tucked Ang in, and went and saw Tarun off to Valparaiso. Both Teams were supposed to head here for the next race challenge so it was a disappointing day for team Australia to be left behind, but happy they were happy that Tarun could continue.

Tired Plaza Del Armas residents

The next morning, after serving out the enforced rest break, they woke early and were given their next clue. They were directed to find the Mercardo central to eat a fantastic seafood meal. They raced through the metro and found their way to the small, not touted, locally frequented restaurant where they ordered a hearty seafood meal. Ang ate what she called the “best freak’n seafood of the whole trip”, and said “it was cooked to perfection”. With this challenge passed, they were given their next clue.  They were to make their way to Easter Island!

Mercardo Central

Simon and Ang were pumped about heading to the famous Easter Island. They were booked on a six hour flight the next morning. For their last night in Santiago, they ate a delicious paradilla and went to bed early, sharing a single mattress on a bunk bed yet again as the hostel was completely full.

Santiago coyote style

Waking early they raced to the airport and boarded their flight to Rapi Nui. Five hours later after flying across half of the Pacific, they landed, bought their national park tickets, and were met and driven in the back of a ute to their accommodation, a seaside hostel, the pit stop for this leg of the race.

There they expected to be checked in, but were told they were still racing…

…To be continued.

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Argentina 4: Bariloche

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, one team of two set out from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, Chile aboard the Navimag ferry.  After travelling for four days the team arrived in Puerto Montt and received their next clue instructing them to make their way back into Argentina to the town of Bariloche.

With disembarkation formalities completed, the team raced to the main bus terminal in Puerto Montt.  There they booked passage on an afternoon bus to San Carlos de Bariloche.  With several hours to kill before the bus departed, the team decided to visit the little nearby town of Puerto Varas, the Chilean equivalent of Bariloche.  After a quick minibus ride, they arrived in the small village and met up again with Team Wales (after running into Team America and another Team Australia last seen on the Navimag). Lunch was had and Simon and Ang returned to Puerto Montt.

The bus ride over the Andes across the border into Bariloche was smooth and uneventful.  The team checked into their accommodation and set about completing the main task for this leg, to eat as much chocolate and ice cream as possible over the next two days. Simon elected to complete this challenge (although Ang did help), and sampled a variety of well known and artisanal chocolate and ice cream manufactures, including such giants as Rapi Nui and Helados Jauja (now with a store in Melbourne).

A church in Bariloche
Progressive Bariloche Great Scott!

With this challenge completed, and once again the first to arrive, the team decided to celebrate with another fantastic Argentina asado.

Delicious meat ¡Qué bien! Asado de Argentina es muy rico y muy sabroso!
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Chile 5: Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt

Simon

After the optional rest period, the team received their next clue checked out of the pit stop.  They were directed to make their way by boat to the city of Puerto Montt. Simon and Ang wasted no time and set off through Puerto Natales to the port.  There they enquired about boat options and directed to the Navimag office.

Pier to nowhere Puppies!

Passage was negotiated and tickets purchased. Having heard good things about this trip, Simon and Ang were looking forward to cruising the Chilean fjords. They had also heard that BYO wine was allowed, so after buying a couple of Chilean reds, they checked their baggage in and had dinner at a local parradilla, along with Team Wales and the mixed Team Australia and England from the Torres Del Paine leg.

Intrepid racers pause for a cross promotional photo opportunity

Soon it was time to board.  The trip began well with the team enjoying the humorous multilingual guide’s briefing.  Once all the passengers had walked on board and the cargo was eventually loaded early the next morning, the ferry set sail.  Simon and Ang were provided with their one task for this leg of the race, to spot a blue whale.

The mighty Navimag hauling stuff

The next three days of sailing was spent doing very little other than chatting and sharing wine with friendly teams from England and America, that ever plucky team from Wales, and a Team Canada, last seen during the Antarctic leg of the race.  Highlights of the voyage included completing the blue whale sighting challenge, bingo and an epic 5 on 1 on-deck giant chess game. Low point for Ang was the overnight crossing through the Golfo De Penas (Golf of Pain – no prizes for guessing why).

Fjords panorama!
Glacier panorama!
Early version of the Navimag
High tech Navimag bridge equipment That wheel makes the boat go faster
Most likely a blue whale Strato volcano and chess!

After four days of sailing, the ship arrived at Puerto Montt early in the morning and the team received their next clue.

Sunset on the Navimag Early morning end of the cruise

… To be continued.

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Chile 4: Los Cuernos to Puerto Natales

Simon

After a windy, but restful night, the team once again made breakfast and packed camp.  They set off early as they hoped to make their way all the through to high Torres camp.  There they would spend their final night and attempt to see the sunrise on the Torres the following morning, the final element of the Torres Del Paine challenge.

Simon tucking into the remaining snacks

Owing to the damage to Ang’s feet from her undersized shoes, her pace in Simon’s ‘hand me down shoes’ given to him by Stefan (the solo member of Team Germany, last seen in Ushuaia and previously the Sans Blas leg, was slow. Simon’s pace was also limited as his feet did not like Ang’s smaller shoes as well.

Despite their slower pace, and Ang changing into her thongs for the last hour of the walk, the team was able to make their way to the short cut and begin the ascent to the high Torres camp.  They arrived before the other Exclusive race teams from the circuit and set up camp.  Then it was another 45 minute climb to the summit mirador for a view of the famous Torres. The afternoon was spent looking at the spectacular view and taking photos before they returned back to the campsite to eat and sleep.

Torres Del Paine watching in the afternoon (points for spotting Ang) Ang gazes at the towers
Looking towards the park entry Final night’s campsite

Excited and freezing (Simon only had a +5 degree sleeping bag) they tried to sleep.  Hand warmers were cracked in an attempt to get warm. Eventually they gave up and decided to get up and commence the final walk up to see the sun come up on the towers.

About 40 minutes later they arrived and were treated to a spectacular golden hour. There they watched the towers and took plenty of photos and tried to stay warm. With the sun fully up, they returned back to the campsite, broke camp and shouldered their packs for the walk back to the starting point to complete the circuit.

Dawn light, Torres Del Paine style The team keeps warm and watches the light change
Simon impersonates a cat burglar with a manly beard

Arriving back at the main lodge, the team received their next clue. With the completion of the full Torres Del Paine circuit, they were to make their way back to the Singing Lamb hostel in Puerto Natales, the pit stop for this leg of the race.  Excited, the team celebrated by drinking some wine that a friendly pair of impressed holidaying day walking tourists bought for them while they waited for the shuttle bus out of the park.

Simon and Ang both give the circuit the thumbs up and seconds later received their next clue

On the return bus ride, Ang expressed how she really enjoyed the whole hike, despite her shoe pain.  Simon was amazed at the tenacity of Ang, and agreed, it was a spectacular walk. They covered over 100km in six days according to this vaguely accurate map to complete the challenge. They chatted with Team Wales and another Team America as they made their way back to Natales.

Soon they arrived into the pretty township and raced back to the hostel dropping off hired gear on the way.  Once again, they were the first to arrive, winning this leg of the race.

Busy Puerto Natales
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Chile 3: Campamento Los Guardas to los Cuernos

Simon

After a hectic four days, Team Australia woke and prepared for the final half of the circuit, completion of the ‘W’ section of the Torres Del Paine hike. Simon and Ang got ready, broke camp and loaded up their packs for the walk to Campamento Italiano.

Morning Grey Glacier!

Their walk took them south away from Grey Glacier, along the left stroke of the ‘W’. Simon had commented that he was yet to experience Patagonian winds and was rewarded gusts strong enough to almost knock both team mates off their feet. Despite having the more aerodynamic pack, Ang fared little better.  The two racers were blown all the way to the bottom of the lake over the next few hours, but were glad the wind was at their backs.

Simon uses his awesome strength to kick a tree over

During this stretch, the team walked past more people over the course of the morning than they had seen in the previous three days. It was obvious they had arrived on the popular ‘W’. This was also the barren section of the Torres Del Paine park that had been burnt out by an Israeli walker. Both Simon and Ang were once again thankful they were walking in the direction they were as the ash from the fire was at their backs and not in their faces.

Left over blaze rubbish
Windy patagonia

Ang’s shoe problems had now become acute and she was in considerable pain. Not wanting to cause the team to forfeit the challenge for a time penalty, Ang soldiered on all the way around to the mid point of the ‘W’, to the free Campamento Italiano. Late that afternoon, the team walked into the camp.  Ang struggled in with tears due to the pain caused by her new shoes.

Simon in the wasteland

After a concerned Chilean ranger looked at her feet, he advised that Ang pull out and get the ferry by walking back the way they’d came.  Ang being Ang decided that they had come to far to quit and took this as a challenge, plus they were racing, so she didn’t want to give up. She reckoned that she could walk the short distance to Los Cuernos campsite where she would be able to rest her feet.  After Simon put the campsite together, he decided that since the majority of the walk was now complete, he would swap shoes with Ang.  To see if he would have the capability to walk the remaining distance in Ang’s shoes, and because the cloud cover had lifted, Simon headed up alone into the Frances Valley as the sun was starting to set.

Simon raced up the hill and took a bunch of photos before returning back down to the camp, completing a 20km walk. Once back at camp he had dinner with Ang and Teams Wales, UK/Australia, America and Germany and compared notes. Once again, sleep came easily.

Half way up Frances Valley, Simon realises it has been five days since he last shaved Frances valley mountains, the back end of the Torres

Waking, Simon and Ang made breakfast and broke camp.  They moved at a relaxed place over to the next campsite just 1 hour away to Los Cuernos. There they made camp, and rested. Simon occupied himself by building a sturdy rock wall to act as a wind break whilst Ang opted to stay by the warmth of the fire in the refugio in company of other travellers drinking wine and eating chocolate.  Teams America and Germany pushed on and continued to the Torres Del Paine.  Teams Wales, and the combined UK and Australian team spent most of the day walking up into Frances Valley, then they also made camp in Los Cuernos.

Patagonian lake
Humble tent with Simon’s rock wall wind break challenge effort

…To be continued

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Chile 2: Refugio Dickson to Campamento Los Guardas

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, one team of two set out on an epic hike around the Torres Del Paine national park.  After walking almost 35km, the team arrived at Refugio Dickson, a remote campsite on the fair side of the Torres Del Paine national park.

Waking early the next morning, the team quickly ate breakfast and broke camp. Because Ang’s feet were still sore from the previous day’s hike, the team decided to make their way to the next campsite and attempt the crossing of the pass the following day.

Paine plants Ang crosses the ranging torrent

They were once again joined by the solo members of Team America and Germany and set off up towards the campsite of Los Pinos. Walking, but still at a sound pace, the team marvelled at the spectacular scenery and almost complete isolation, as aside from their own company, they only saw the odd ranger.

Waterfall! Simon rests his bones
Vertical Torres Del Paine

Towards the evening, the team climbed upwards and at the top of a rock pile were greeted by a spectacular lake, glacier and mountain site. Then it was an easier walk along to the Campamento Los Pinos where they spent the night. Their camping neighbours in an enormous four person tent were a friendly pair representing Team Wales on their own Exclusive pedalling race around Patagonia. Both teams traded stories about their respective races and previous legs before it was time to cook dinner.  As the campsite was less nicer than the previous grassy Refugio Dickson and was permanently damp and without a warm refugio camp fire, the team headed for the tent straight after dinner.

Stunning lake An amazing exclusive coffee ad looking for a brand

Planning to make up time, and because they would have to summit the pass, they woke before sun rise. A quick breakfast was eaten and the team set off through the bog and fallen logs up into the top of the valley towards the top of the pass.  Ang and Simon were the first Exclusive race team to leave camp, but were over taken on the long climb by another team Australia and eventually team Wales.

Both Simon and Ang didn’t care at this point and were actually a day ahead on account of their mammoth first day. They instead enjoyed every moment of the views they had on the spectacular ascent.

Simon climbs up to the pass The view down onto Grey Glacier

Taking time to enjoy the view from the top of the pass, the team’s breaths were taken away.  Below them was the spectacularly enormous Grey Glacier, part of the massive Southern Patagonia Ice Field. For both Simon and Ang this section would be the least favourite part of the circuit as they entered the tree line and commenced a scramble down the steep slope. Simon had to brace himself with each step on account of his heavy pack and Ang’s feet were in agony on account of the ill fitting shoes. Eventually they arrived at the base of the slope and started the long but spectacular walk along the glacier edge from to Campamento Los Guardas.

Team Wales pauses to be part of a spectacular panorama of Grey Glacier

After stopping for lunch, Ang strategically suggested that Simon walk on ahead because the next campsite was a free site and slightly more accessible to people doing the regular ‘W’ walk.  Both racers were concerned that it may be packed.  Simon set off ahead and after a couple of hours of walking, that involved crossing hair raising ravines, he arrived at the site.  There he set up camp and waited for Ang to arrive.

Some racers stop for lunch in front of Grey Glacier The racers pose for a promotional photo in front of the Glacier
Another spectacular Torres panorama
Ladders on the circuit Ladders that have seen better days
Simon enjoys this panoramic view
The rough Torres trail Simon gives Grey Glacier the thumbs up

By this point, Ang’s feet were torture to her and she barely was able to walk the last bit into the camp, but was kindly supported by the friendly Team American and German girls.  Campamento Los Guardas was ideally located next to the tongue of Grey Glacier, so after dinner, Simon went to the nearby mirador and took some photos. Then Ang and Simon spent some time socialising with Team Wales, a Mixed Team UK and Australia and the other Exclusive racers at the small cosy campsite.

Sleep came quickly after three days of solid walking.

…To be continued.

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Chile 1: Ushuaia to Torres Del Paine

Simon

After the mandatory rest period, the team collected their next clue and embarked on the next leg of the Amazing Exclusive Race.  They were to make their way to the world famous Torres Del Paine national park in Chile and complete a full circuit, after which they would receive their next clue.

Quickly they ran down to the bus stop and soon were making their way out of Ushuaia.  Their bus wound its way through the Tierra Del Fuego, an almost unspoilt wilderness.  Their route took them across the narrow stretch of water that took them onto the mainland then on to the border with Chile.

The team races to their early morning bus Waiting to enter Chile
Tierra Del Fuego Ferry panorama

After an uneventful trip through customs, they arrived at Punta Arenas, the stopover before their onward bus to Puerto Natales. The team joined a solo racer from France for a walk around town and a quick dinner before they were back on the bus heading to Puerto Natales. The remaining trip passed without incident.

Patagonian puppy Punta Arenas sky

They arrived into Natales after dark and weirdly saw a giant Mylodon on a round about as they made their way into town. With the bus trip over and there needing to be some preparation time before they would be allowed to embark on the 9 day continuous hike around the circuit, Simon and Ang checked into the Singing Lamb Backpackers for the night.

Waking the next morning to homemade bread and gourmet porridge, they quickly set about acquiring the necessary camping gear and buying enough supplies to last them the entire circuit. As they were racing, both Simon and Ang decided to deliberately only buy enough food and take enough cooking gas to last 6 days. Ang said “we always complete walks faster than the advertised times and we were full of confidence after the Inca trail, we knew we’d have enough food”. They also decided to only take Simon’s big backpack and a smaller day pack and leave the rest of their gear at the most hospitable Singing Lamb hostel.

Next morning the team boarded an early morning bus to the National park along with a variety of Teams from other countries on their own exclusive races. Simon and Ang were both excited as they had planned an aggressive walking schedule for the first day which they were confident in doing. They had joined up with two solo member teams from Germany and America. Their first day’s walking would be approximately 35 kms.

Arriving at the park at 11am on the shuttle bus, the teams set off from Laguna Amarguna to Refugio Dickson in an anticlockwise direction around the circuit as the Torres were shrouded in fog and clouds.  The hike started easily enough.  Simon handled the 20kg+ pack well, but unfortunately soon Ang’s feet were hurting in her recently purchased (from Ushuaia), slightly too small for her feet, shoes.  The teams arrived at the first campsite at the 12km mark and were allowed to continue on to the next campsite.

The team pose for a photo before starting the walk
Paine panorama
That way!

They all kept up a solid pace and ate into the remaining kms. Simon and Ang were both amazed at the awesome view along the back side of the circuit. At one point, two majestic enormous condors glided overhead. Later on they were stopped and quizzed by two park rangers, as apparently their aggressive walking plan was frowned upon. Simon and Ang shrugged this off as they knew they needed to keep up a quick pace to win this race.

25km into the walk climbing a small unexpected hill
Simon’s enormous pack Ang’s… eh pack
Despite shoe pain, Ang is enjoying this challenge

After hours of walking, the team arrived just before dusk at their first campsite for the night, the Refugio Dickson. There they made camp, cooked up the first of their rather plain food and dried out in the Refugio by the warm fire, preparing for the next day.  Ang’s feet were not in a good state, so the team adjusted their plan for the next leg of the hike.

…To be continued

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Antarctica 4: Paradise Bay to Ushuaia

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, one team of two raced all the way south to the mysterious continent of Antarctica.  There they embarked on a series of amazing ice bound challenges.  After receiving a surprise second camping challenge and spending a night under the stars, the team woke early the next morning.

Bivy bags were quickly packed and gear stowed in its carry bags.  With the camping area cleared, the various teams, including Simon and Ang, were given their next clues.  They all raced down to the landing point and jumped into a zodiac for the ride back to the Plancius. Simon enjoyed the night, but was glad to get back to the Plancius to empty the esky.

After a nice long warm shower, the team were treated to another great breakfast as anchors were raised. Yet another fantastic navigation was enjoyed with the team observing many small minke whales, larger humpbacks, lone ranger penguins and the occasional seal amongst the ice bergs and flows.

Iceberg cake! More iceberg cake!
Simon mucking around on deck

For their last challenge in Antarctic waters, Simon and Ang were given their final clue.  Ang was to complete a final zodiac cruise along side an enormous glacier whilst Simon was to paddle a kayak for the second and last time around Cierva Cove. The Plancius dropped anchor and the zodiacs and kayaks were deployed. There was a fair degree of excitement, sadness and dread in the air.  This would be the last chance to experience the Antarctic wilderness before the ship headed north and into the Drake once again. The sky was magic.

Kayaking gear on the railing ready to be put on Simon about to boat
Even more iceberg cake!

Simon’s first impression as he boarded the last zodiac to leave the ship that this was going to be an experience to remember.  In the distance, a huge snow covered sheet of ice slopped down into the sea with a massive rock massif jutting out of it, like a giant crashed alien spaceship.  The beams of sunlight and the haze gave the impression they were about to enter a special place.

Out of this world Antarctica An unknown Exclusive Race team about to start paddling

Simon’s zodiac raced over to the mother ship zodiac and the final group of kayakers boarded their boats for the last paddle. A nearby leopard seal kept its distance and the group set off into the frozen ice berg wasteland. Simon had started grinning earlier on the gangplank, and now could only grin more as he pushed his way through the brash ice and around the growlers, bergy bits and proper massive ice bergs.  At times he was leading the pack of paddlers, using the kayak’s strong bow to break a path through the ice for the rest.  At other times, he played the nudge the giant carving iceberg game and tried to take photos of the amazing flocks of swimming Gentoos racing by. Simon didn’t stop grinning and despite being in a race, he considered making a run for shore to stay longer when it was finally time to get back in the zodiac and return to the ship.

Plancius on the horizon Kayak covered in ice!
Ice mountain! Iceberg ice field… brrrrrr icy
Team France paddling to complete this fantastic challenge Kayak… iceberg… majestic bird…

Ang said “The zodiac cruise was breath taking. I was so glad to have shared it with a wonderful new friend Sue from Team Sydney. The lighting was magic and the great white continent was saying good bye in all its glory. I had a teary moment as we sat in silence. I got to see  a leopard seal right up close lazing in the sun and two orca playing around, it couldn’t have been a better good bye”

Leopard spots Leopard smile
Only thing more dangerous than a leopard seal… robo leopard seal Soft leopard fur
Pure wilderness and a zodiac Iceberg minty!
Slushy land

With this challenge completed, both Simon and Ang returned to the Plancius and were given their next clue. They were to return to Ushuaia, and on the return journey they were to enter a ship wide photography competition. Outside, all the boats zodiacs loaded, the boat weighed anchor and sadly embarked north.  The team spent until nightfall sipping drinks in the lounge, watching the amazing wilderness slip by and worked on their photos for the photography competition, the final task for this leg of the race.

Delicious iceberg cake Smooth iceberg cake

Sadly, the ship reached open ocean and once again the passengers were advised to ‘keep one hand for the ship and one hand for yourself’.  Simon finished the editing on the photos on behalf of Ang (who had returned to her Drake passage horizontal bed spot).  With entry made into the competition, Simon celebrated completing the challenge by enjoying a selection of surprisingly reasonably priced red wines and the company of the other non-sea sick team members.

Simon mucking around in the Drake

After two days of sailing, Simon and Ryan from Team Canada finished a mid Drake passage shaving challenge, the Plancius arrived into the calm waters of the Beagle channel. For this final night, cocktails were had, and the teams enjoyed the calm navigation back into Argentine waters.  The final task of for this leg of the race was then judged and Ang won the photography competition with her fantastic shot of the unreal Petermann landscape.

Solution to seasickness… pirate port! Plancius gps track almost at an end

Collecting her prize jacket and accolades from the other teams, Ang was emotional and teary. She was given the final clue, and the team was directed to return to the port of Ushuaia, the pit stop for this leg of the race. After a restful final night’s sleep, the team was woken early. They dressed and watched as the Plancius was edged into the docking position.

Ushuaia early morning panorama
Edging into the dock

Bags were collected and the team walked down the gangplank.  There they were met by their agent and checked into the pit stop.  Once again they were the first team to arrive.

British vessels not allowed

In a post race interview, Simon and Ang both expressed their sheer amazement that they were the first team to visit the amazing Antarctic wilderness. Simon and Ang both agreed that “Antarctica exceeded our expectations in every way.  I definitely will be coming back.  Ang said “it’s such an incredible place that no words nor photos can ever describe the awe and sheer amazement and beauty of the place”. They both agreed that if they had the chance to get back on the Plancius and head back straight away (like one Team France did), they would in a heartbeat. They were both pleased to have won the first ever race leg to Antarctica. Knowing that they were in a race and that they would soon leave the pit stop for the next destination unknown, both Simon and Ang set about enjoying the optional rest period.

Still penguin mad during the optional rest period Penguin meringues
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Antarctica 3: Paradise Bay

Simon

The aptly name Paradise Bay was the Team’s icy anchorage overnight while they rested ahead of their eighth day of this first ever destination for the Amazing Exclusive Race. After their restful night’s sleep, the team was woken early the next morning. While they munched on yet another fantastic breakfast, the anchors were raised.

Ang and Simon, along with another Team Australia discuss the navigation Spectacular

The Plancius quickly got underway and steamed north around a spectacular headland and towards a distant bay.  Both Simon and Ang were amazed at the jaw dropping scenery as massive ice bergs and bergy bits floated by.  They marvelled at the lighting on the mountains and sea and enjoyed the whole navigation until the ship arrived in Neko Harbour.  There the anchor was lowered and Simon and Ang received their next clue.

Approaching Neko Harbour
Like a giant iced cake in the morning sun
Simply spectacular

Simon’s task for this challenge was to snowshoe mountaineer to the top of the hill overlooking the Harbour and take panoramas.  Ang’s was to get into a kayak and paddle around massive dying ice bergs that were stuck in the harbour.  Both team members joined the others in their respective challenges and set off.

Glacier up close Standard wind-swept ice formation

Ang said that “the kayak challenge was the most stunning ride I’d ever been on. The lighting was breathtaking and the birds were beautiful. At one point the winds picked up out of nowhere really rapidly and the group immediately turned in the opposite direction for safety and shelter”. Ang had a big grin from ear to ear when she paddled back to the beach at Neko harbour.

Simon found the climb easy, and took time to enjoy the view in the relatively warm temperatures.  He took the required photographs and joined the other hikeneers on the easy walk down the high hill.  On the return journey, Team Canada asked if Simon would be doing the swim challenge.  Having not yet received that clue, but keen to have a go, Simon said, “I will if you will…”.  Arriving at the bottom of the hill and at the beach, Simon watched as other Teams completed their polar dip challenge. Team Canada thought Simon had stitched them up. It wasn’t until Ang returned from her kayak leg that Simon and Ang were provided with their next task.

Hikeneers climb the hill
Panorama of Neko Harbour from the top of the hill
Simon tries to point to the ship (it’s so cold one of his hands are blue)

This challenge, a road block, required one team member to take a cool dip in the southern ocean.  Of course Simon said yes, and he quickly stripped down and changed into board shorts.  Putting on the Antarctica hat carried all the way from Brazil, he raced into the freezing water. Simon later said, “I had nothing to compare the temperature to, as the coldest water I’ve previously swam in was a barmy 16 degrees.  It burnt, but the worst bit was the cold sand afterwards on my feet!”. Ang was asked if she wanted to swim as well, just for the hell of it, but said “are you crazy!” in reply. With the challenge completed, the team was directed back the Plancius and given their next task.  They were to make their way back to Paradise Bay and go leopard seal spotting.

Simon completes the swimming challenge in style (photo courtesy Laurent Dick) Simon emerges from the water from another angle
Challenge completed, the next clue is provided

After yet another great lunch and an exciting navigation, the team arrived back in Paradise Bay.  The first activity was a zodiac cruise around the ice berg clogged bay.  After witnessing several carvings, some shy crab-eater seals, the team’s patience was rewarded by seeing not one but two leopard seals. Simon and Ang marvelled at these huge dinosaur like creatures.  They were stunned as one swam slowly around the zodiacs for a good half hour, almost sizing up the boat for potential meal or mating purposes.  With this challenge completed, the team were given their next clue by the boat driver.  They were to complete a bobsled challenge in Antarctica!

Iceberg volcano! More icebergs
Lone ranger penguin Plancius bow
Nose of the leopard Climbers at the peak

After being deposited at nearby Base Almirante Brown, the team climbed up the hill behind the base and Simon jumped onto a plastic bag for a bobsled by a friendly Team Ireland member.  He raced down the hill, hooting all the way, and quickly climbed back up again to give Ang the bag for her turn.  Ang shot down quickly and soon was running back up the hill.  They had completed the challenge, but since it was so fun, the team decided to do another run each! With the fun completed, the team headed back to the landing point and after a cool mini zodiac cruise, the team assisted Team France in the collection of a 30kg chunk of ice from the sea for delivery to the bar.

Base Brown and bobsled course behind
Simon jumps above base Brown Snow chicken!
Zodiac and ice Seal enjoying the hot Antarctic day
Rocket penguin! Icy!
Perfect for a cocktail The black sheep iceberg of the family
Simon lugging the ice for Team France Big hunk of ice in the bar

Following a delicious dinner while waiting for the next challenge, Ang, who was thoroughly  enjoying this leg of the race, organised a private zodiac cruise so she and Simon could experience five minutes of complete silence as promised in the welcome briefing. They would help drop off the campers then go for their cruise on the way back to the boat.

After dropping off one load, the team along with Jim, an expedition staff member, returned to the Plancius for the last of the campers. There they were given another surprise camping challenge by one of the Russian crew!  They were to spend another night sleeping outdoors, this time in Bivi bags.  Simon and Ang were ecstatic as this was completely unexpected. They quickly deposited the last of the campers at the landing site. Andrew, the Australia expedition camping staff member called the team ‘Silly Australians’ and accused Simon and Ang of planning this surprise camping challenge. The team was just as shocked, but were pumped at getting another chance to sleep al naturale in a polar region.  Plus, they still would be able to complete their private zodiac cruise, as Jim took them away from the camp landing site and into the dark.

Arriving in the middle of an ice field about a kilometre away from the Plancius and camp site, radios were switched off and the three humans floated and enjoyed the silence… of a huge amount of ice crunching and grinding against itself. Simon noticed fairly early that in the near distance an ice berg was floating towards their boat. He also noticed that this ice berg had a long black sausage like shape on it, suggesting a seal of some sort. Figuring that collision with the zodiac was likely, and probably on Ang’s side, Simon’s main concern was that the seal would be awoken by Ang’s scream of terror.

As the ice berg came closer, Simon’s eyes darted between the seal and Ang.  Suddenly, Simon could see the whites of Ang’s eyes.  She didn’t scream, but was obviously frightened.  Moments later the berg with the sleeping seal crunched into the zodiac.  All the team could hear was a snoring seal!  With that amazing moment completed, and the five minutes up, Jim started the engines and motored the team back over to the camp site.  There they went ashore, grabbed their camp gear and joined the other happy campers on the snow.

Unpacking the bivy The team prepares to sleep out in the open

Sleep came quickly after the action packed day and was only interrupted by the occasional carving of the massive nearby glacier.

…To be continued.

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Antarctica 2: Port Lockroy to Paradise Bay

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, Team Australia embarked an epic voyage south out of South America to Antarctica. After a turbulent and seasick mired trip across the infamous Drake Passage, the Plancius navigated the Neumayer channel and arrived in the calm waters around Goudier Island. There they embarked on a series of challenges including kayaking, hiking and finally an amazing night of camping.

Waking early the next morning, the team packed their bedding the set about enjoying the surrounding area. Many photographs were taken and, after Simon climbed to the top of the nearby hill, they returned to the zodiacs and the Plancius for bathrooms and breakfast. Receiving their next clue after eating, the team attended the photography workshop briefing.

Early morning at the camp site

Laurent, a French-American Associated Press contract photographer, provided the team with their next challenge. They were tasked with photographing wildlife in its natural environment focusing in on taking a strong photograph. With the briefing completed, Simon and Ang boarded a zodiac and were shuttled to shore at Dorian Bay. There they carefully made their way around the Gentoo penguin rookery and took the required photographs. Simon and Ang both agreed that they took too many photographs of Gentoos, that they poo a lot and they are completely awesome creatures.

Ice! Cool Gentoos in their cool home
A Gentoo takes time out of its busy schedule to pose for a photo Stretching Gentoo
The magical Antarctic landscape Malting Gentoo!
A penguin trying to re-evolve the capability to fly A Gentoo finishes its swim
Gentoo filth

Racing back to the Plancius, after a quick zodiac cruise to photograph some otherworldly icebergs clogging Dorian Bay, they had yet another delicious lunch and were given a road block. They were to complete a snowshoe hike to the top of a hill where one of the team members was required to build a snowman. As Simon had never built one before, he volunteered to complete the challenge. Reaching the top of the hill, Simon completed his snowman quickly, using algae smears for eyes, and the team was allowed to continue of the snowshoe hike. Half way up the next hill, another task was presented.

Swan ice berg
Rookery panorama
Simon and Ang celebrate completing the snow man challenge
Snow shoeing panorama

Three separate Amazing Exclusive race teams, Simon from Team Australia, Ray and Damo from another Team Australia and Ryan from Team Canada, were required to have a snowball fight. Each team fought valiantly and they were all given their respective next clues. After a quick visit to the old 1980s Damoy research hut and spotting of a lone chin strap penguin and random Chilean Navy ship, the team returned to the waiting zodiacs and headed back to the Plancius. Yet another delicious dinner was had along with great company and lots of wine, after which Simon and Ang retired for the night.

Moments later a snow ball fight erupted
Ang enjoying a moment on the rocks The Chilean navy arrives

In the morning, preparations were made for the Plancius’ departure. The previous nights camping had been cancelled due to dangerous winds so the crew was out early packing up the campsite and collecting the tents that had been blown off into the channel during the night. With one of the three missing tents recovered, the Plancius raised its anchor. A course was set for the spectacular Leimer channel and the team was tasked with enjoying this navigation in all its splendour. The weather was clear and the steep Antarctic mountains majestic. Most of the passengers were on deck and those who were not, were looking through one of the many windows so they could complete the Leimer Navigation challenge.

Ants in Antarctica! This photo completes Gail’s challenge More other worldly landscape
Recovery of one of the tents
Leimer channel panorama
Another amazing coastline
Layers of ice
Ice berg!
Blue ice berg with very little air in it

After this navigation was complete the Plancius continued on to the Argentine Islands. As the ship approached, the weather turned rainy. Simon and Ang were given two choices of challenges to complete. Simon elected to complete the hikeneering challenge and Ang went to complete another photography challenge by photographing the historic Wordie House.

Simon’s task was relatively straight forward and involved climbing a small hill that overlooked the Ukrainian Vernadsky Station, before walking down the hill to the station itself, whilst wearing snowshoes. This task was completed quickly by Simon, mainly because it was raining on and off and a little bit too cold this day. Simon said at the time that “this was a pretty easy walking challenge, but the landscape was still utterly spectacular due to the bleak weather. I just wish I had some way to keep the rain off the lens of the camera and a few more moments to make the snowman I made even more epic in size”.

Ang set out to complete her task and soon had taken some fantastic photographs of another historic British station, Wordie House. Unfortunately she was the last Exclusive Racer to leave the hut and was almost left behind on the little island. Ang luckily was able to hitch a ride on the zodiac that had come to close up the hut.

Classic Wordie House (as it was left) Wordie House pantry

Both Ang and Simon then completed separate guided tours of the working Vernadsky station. This base had been purchased from the British by the Ukrainians and includes a, until recently, working bar. Unlike the ice free Port Lockroy, Vernadsky had been isolated for most of the summer and so had only seen one other supply ship before the Plancius’ arrival. Simon and Ang both noticed the slightly scared and unusual way the Ukrainian scientists conducted their respective tours. Simon said that “I particularly liked the wall of over winter fame, with the crazy deranged types and one Ukrainian researcher who was doing an impersonation of a suave sea captain saying ‘hello ladies'”. After checking out the Faraday bar, the team completed this challenge. The damp team soon reunited back on the Plancius to trade stories.

Ukrainian humour at Vernadsky Station Simon completes the pour a beer challenge behind the Faraday bar in Vernadsky
Cracking jokes with the other team Australias on board the Plancius Another delicious desert

Overnight, to escape the wind, the Plancius motored north. Waking, the team found themselves floating next to a high Antarctic fjord. The challenge for today was to walk around the other worldly Petermann Island, whilst other teams attempted to summit Mt Scott.

The view from the deck outside the team’s cabin

Owing to the high winds, Simon and Ang, along with the other exclusive race teams, were rapidly shuttled ashore. There they completed an excellent hike that included photographing a variety of wildlife and unexpected animal behaviours. They also took a large number of stunning landscape photographs.

Happy feet! Damo gets told off by a Gentoo
Green Antarctica on Petermann Penguin egg!

After summiting the small peak on the island and observing a Gentoo build a wind break for its feet with specially selected rocks, Simon reunited with Ang and they returned to the ship, having completed the challenge for the morning.

Gentoo building a wall Seals and Penguins living side by side in perfect harmony
Seal portrait

Soon the mountaineers returned and the ship steamed north. The afternoon’s activities included navigation up the Lemaire channel to Paradise Bay, a calm, spectacular anchorage, where they spent the night.

Twin peaks panorama
Ice berg floats by the window

…To be continued.

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