Bolivia

Argentina 1: Tupiza to Mercedes

Simon

As the first team to arrive at the Tupiza pit stop, Simon and Ang were the first to depart at 9am the following day.  Their first clue required them to make their way as quickly as possible to the city of Salta in Argentina.  Racing out of the pit stop, they jumped into a shared taxi and raced to the border of Bolivia and Argentina at a town called Villazon.

Arriving at the dusty border town an hour later, the team changed the last of their Bolivianos and walked to immigration. As they walked down a long shop lined hill, they noticed a long line of people queuing for something. When they eventually arrived at the international bridge, and after asking a Bolivian border guard, the team reluctantly trudged back up the hill to the back of the queue. There they shuffled along with the crowd of Bolivians, Paraguayans and assorted backpacker types in the long procession to the immigration office. Having changed all their currency and planning to have breakfast across the border, the team was not impressed. They were even more unimpressed with the people who pushed their way to the front of the queue.

Villazon, a dusty border crossing town Even the vendors are bored
Completing Gail’s photograph a naturally red haired South American challenge. This guy is from Paraguay

After a marathon six hour wait without food or water, the team finally made it into the office.  There they discovered the entire passport control consisted of one guy and a computer.  He had to manually enter in everyone’s passport details, so the process was very slow, and given the large number of people, took a very long time.  Both Simon and Ang were concerned that with this delay they would be forced to arrive in Salta after dark and may be eliminated from the race.

They finally got their passports stamped and exited Bolivia.  They raced across to the Argentine migration control and waited in line for a hour and a half (two people were working in immigration) before entering the country proper.  By this stage it was just after five pm in the afternoon.  The team ran over to the taxi stand and took a taxi to the nearby bus station.  There they bought tickets to Salta, with a transfer in Salvador de Jujury, for a journey time estimated to be six hours long.

The bus trip was relatively uneventful, and they changed with little issue.  By the time they reached Salta it was one am.  The team was exhausted but still needed to find accommodation.  They took a taxi into the centre of the city and found a hostel.  They slept for a few hours before checking out in the morning and then into a better hostel.

Still tired and hungry, the team walked through the rain back into town.  For the first time during their trip since the US, they were able to withdraw a respectable sum of money from a Citibank branch.  This meant they would be able to save on bank fees and would not need to visit the ATM again until at least a week later.  Happy with this and the modernity of Argentina (particularly when contrast with Bolivia), the team had their first steak lunch.

Upon exiting the restaurant, within moments, someone pick pocketed Simon.  After asking back at the restaurant in case anyone had seen something, they returned to the hostel to lock the card, then returned to the police station where they completed a police report.  With this unfortunate development, and after dealing with the insurance paperwork, the team were issued with a new clue and set off to the bus station.

Ang and Simon enjoy a delicious Argentina steak lunch

Their new clue provided by Mary was a detour that required them to make their way as rapidly as possible into the heart of Argentine Gaucho land to Sam’s farm.  To do this they would take an evening bus to the town of Resistencia and continue on to nearby Corrientes.  Tickets were purchased and after dinner, the team returned to their hostel to spend the night.  There they chatted with a Team Argentina and they were told that Salta is a hotspot for pick pockets.  Simon and Ang were sad that this information had been provided too late.

Happy gas

The next day was low key and after eating some Argentine empanadas and Tamales, the team raced to the bus station for the overnight bus to Resistencia.  This semi-cama (semi bed) ride was not totally uncomfortable, but the team was glad to arrive in Resistencia early in the next morning.  They quickly changed to another bus going on to Corrientes.  Arriving there, they raced out of the bus station and rapidly found a taxi.

Completing the eat empanadas challenge at the Patio de la Empanada

They explained they wanted to go to Sam’s farm and gave the directions provided in the clue, but were told while they were in the right province, they were in the wrong town!  Corrientes city, the capital of the Corrientes province is located approximately 300km north of the town of Mercedes (which, by using the directions that included reference to the local football club, the taxi driver and friendly fly fishing guide said was the actual destination).  With this new information, and given they were in South America, the team set about confirming the actual location of Sam’s farm.

Both Simon and Ang were once again worried they would be eliminated due to this costly delay as if the information was correct, their best option would be another five hour bus ride, which wasn’t leaving until later in the day around midday.   Thanks to a friendly information desk lady, the team was able to get in contact with Sam and confirm the town he actually lived was indeed Mercedes and that he would meet the team when their bus arrived a little after five pm, approximately 24 hours after they left Salta.

The bus ride to Mercedes was long and boring.  Simon and Ang both marvelled at the similarities of the Corrientes cattle country with the farm land back in Australia and tried to nap.  Eventually their bus pulled into the Mercedes bus station where they met Sam and were driven to Sam’s farm, the pit stop for this leg of the race.

Ang with Sam in the car speeding to his farm and the pit stop
Car parked in Mercedes Classic car for sale (cause it has a bottle on it)
Panorama of Sam’s farm house

In a post race interview Simon and Ang once again expressed their anger at the pick pocketing incident and but were glad neither was hurt.  They both vowed to be smarter with their decisions in the future to get better cheaper accommodation and activities to help recoup the lost money. They laughed at the mix up with destination, but were glad that this mistake didn’t cost them the race.

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Bolivia 4: Tupiza

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, one team of two raced into the unearthly high Bolivian desert.  They left the town of Uyuni aboard a 4WD and spent four days, three nights travelling through some of the world’s most spectacular desert scenery before racing back to Uyuni.

Arriving in Uyuni late that afternoon, the team raced to the nearby bus office and bought a ticket on that evening’s 8pm overnight bus to the town of Tupiza.  After a quick farewell dinner with Team Organic Hobo, they were aboard, heading out of town.  Owing to the heavy afternoon rain, their bus soon stopped 45 min out of town at a swollen river crossing.  Their driver informed the passengers that they could not pass but would wait for the river to go down. Simon left the bus and visually checked the depth of the water, but could hardly see much in the evening gloom.  Returning to the bus Simon and Ang settled in to wait.

After what turned out to be a restless night that included a twelve piece impromptu Argentine bus band forming, to complete their own Exclusive Race challenge, and playing until two am, the bus driver finally consulted with the passengers at 9am the next morning as the river still was impassable.  Consensus was reached and it was decided to return to Uyuni for breakfast and long awaited use of a bathroom.  They would attempt to cross again in the early afternoon before any later afternoon storms could flood the road again.

Back in Uyuni, Simon and Ang quickly located a bathroom then ate breakfast before jumping back on the bus with the rest of the mostly Argentine passengers.  As their bus approached the blockage, it was clear that the water level had fallen, however it was unclear by how much.  The team was hopeful they would be able to get through otherwise they feared they would be eliminated.

Their bus arrived at the back of a queue that consisted of more trucks, cars and buses than earlier that morning.  The road remained impassable, so once again they settled into wait.  Simon commenced looking at alternative routes.  He managed to work out there was a chance to take a six hour detour north to the town of Potasi, change buses then head six hours south.  But in discussions with Ang, they realised this was probably a silly way to go.

Yep, that road is closed Watching flood water with the locals

About two and a half hours later, a particularly loud, hoarse speaking Argentine guy screamed out “una mapa de Bolivia por favour” (a map of Bolivia please).  He was quickly provided one and about twenty minutes later had worked out the same route that Simon had, and began chanting ‘Po-tasi! Po-tasi! Po-tasi!’, to drum up support for his detour.  He then started negotiating with the driver to get him to turn the bus around.  It was about at this point another double decker bus decided it could make the crossing (without anyone physically checking water depths in the raging current) and ploughed into the flood waters.

Blasting through, the double decker bus proved the way and soon others, including the team’s bus followed.  Hoarse Argentine guy remained quiet for a little while, then got back into the music jam session with the other Argentinean folk.  While they were almost fifteen hours delayed, by driving now during the day, the team was treated to more spectacular scenery, which they would have missed had the bus passed during the night bus.

Just like a chocolate milkshake, only flooding Everyone celebrates the crossing
Putting backpacks back under the bus Empty, but flooded Bolivia
Bolivian landscape at its best Like a matte painting!

Eventually after travelling through mind blowing canyons and countryside, the team arrived in Tupiza on dusk after almost twenty-two hours of travel.  They were given their next clue and owing to opening hours being 9-5pm, decided to find accommodation.

Tupiza building Velo shop, Tupiza
Local bike seat Andean sandals made of car/truck tyres
Dried chillies, Tupiza (oddly missing from restaurant menus) Dried pasta (present on all menus)
Small Bolivian market

Waking the next morning they were picked up and set off to complete the Tupiza Triathlon along with another Team Australia.  This event was a combination of a jeep tour, horseback riding and a downhill mountain bike.  Ang was excited by the prospect of more downhill mountain biking, but was fearful as she previously had bad experiences with horses.  Their jeep driver took them on a tour of the surrounding countryside that included spectacular rock formations and canyons.  They soon arrived at a ranch where they were put on horses for a three hour ride around some canyons.  Ang was informed she would be been given the most placid, friendly calm and slow horse, given her history of being thrown off a few, but this soon proved to be quite the opposite.

Panoramic rock formation during the jeep leg
Cutting in the rock wall Ouchy catcus!
We’re on horses! Bolivia’s wild central plains

Ang’s horse, sensing they were racing, took the lead of the herd.  It cantered on and off as it pleased and made sure no other horse would pass.  Simon tried to spur his horse on, but unfortunately it seemed broken, only cantering once during the ride out.  On the ride back, Ang’s horse was attacked by a rouge juvenile horse, which scared her and almost threw her off as her horse was buck kicking the juvenile.  But thankfully they were all able to canter on the downhill and returned to the corral with the only casualties being one of the other Team Australia’s iPhones being thrown from the horse (it sustained minor scratches only).  With this leg of the triathlon completed they all jumped back into the jeep and headed to the next task.

Unique rock formations Ang in the lead
Simon playing cowboy Racers on horses

Their final task of the Tupiza Triathlon was to complete the downhill mountain bike leg.  They were driven to the top of a long dusty dirt road.  After picking bikes the group set off.  Simon and a member of the other Team Australia took an early lead.  Unfortunately, the rough gravelly road caused the other guy to get a flat tire.  This left Simon alone to complete the final stretch.  Eventually the other team and Ang caught up.  Ang was particularly displeased as the standard of the provided bikes was less than those provided as part of the World’s Most Dangerous Road.  Simon thought later that single shocks should be banned from downhill off road riding, after the jarring but fun ride.

Traffic on the Bolivian downhill road Simon gets ready to ride
Giant Ang gets ready to ride
Fantastic Bolivian canyon panorama
Another canyon panorama
Bolivian downhill road panorama
Ang flys past and on to the finish line

Once all team members had rendezvoused at the bottom of the hill, they rode back through town.  There they received their final clue directing them to the pit stop for this leg of the race.  Arriving tired but happy, Ang and Simon were the first to check into the pit stop for this leg of the race.

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Bolivia 3: Salar de Uyuni

Simon

Simon and Ang who were the first to arrive at the pit stop at 8pm, were the first to depart, after the optional 21 hour rest period, at 5pm in the next day.  They proceeded on foot up to the nearest main road where they hailed a cab for the bus station.

Soon, they found themselves in the late afternoon commuter traffic jam.  Talking with the taxi driver it became clear to the team that the best option was to walk.  Paying the driver and taking their bags, they set off up the hill, walking the short distance remaining to the bus station.  Moments later they were waiting with the rest of the passengers in the chaos of the La Paz bus station for the double decker overnight bus to Uyuni.  It was here they met Bruce and Harry from Team Organic Hobo.

Initially, the bus ride wasn’t that bad.  Both Simon and Ang agreed they had been on much worse in the past.  Once they travelled past Oruro, the bus left the sealed road and bounced along the dirt road.  During this sleepless bus ride, the team chatted with Bruce and Harry and found out that their exclusive race around the world involved filming the various organic and tasty foodstuffs to make into an accessible travel show.  Both teams were required to complete a tour of the Salar de Uyuni, so they agreed to form a temporary race alliance once they arrived in Uyuni.

Almost 10 hours after it started, the bus finally bounced its way along the dirt road into Uyuni. Both Simon and Ang were relieved they had survived the trip that included at one point the bus almost rolling over.  They collected their bags from the hold and raced into town, somewhat energised to locate a good value tour and not stick around unmemorable Uyuni.  Team Organic Hobo was also similarly motivated.

Walking towards the train station, the two teams delegated the negotiation task and asked several companies for prices and itineraries.  They ended up selecting Expediciones Lipez and a professional guide Lewis, who agreed to a discounted tour rate for the two teams.  With only an hour to spare before departure, payment was made and the teams set off to purchase last minute snacks.

Returning to Expediciones Lipez’s offices, bags were loaded into the land cruiser and they all drove off, joined by another pair, Team France.   The first stop on the tour was a surprisingly interesting train graveyard on the outskirts of Uyuni.  There Simon and Ang amused themselves climbing over the rusting hulks and taking photos of the industrial wastage.  Team Organic Hobo did their piece to camera and soon all teams were back in the 4WD, heading towards the Salar De Uyuni.

Simon workin’ out and gettin’huge Ang on the train swing
Graveyard of the trains The racers pose for a photo

After a quick drive through town, their driving guide Lewis took them out onto the partly flooded Salar De Uyuni.  The Salar is a 10,582 km2 salt plain that was formed 13,000 years ago and contains between 50% and 70% of the world’s lithium reserves.  Home to flamingos and the Bolivian salt mining industry, the site has become a major tourist attraction and the place to take interesting perspective shots.  Simon and Ang were provided with a challenge that required them to take photos that took advantage of the flat terrain to change the perspective of scale.

This truck really needed to be treated for rust Piles and piles of salt on the flats
Miniature Ang! Super Shrunk Simon!
Simon flying over the salt flats Simon on a mountain of salt
Salar de Uyuni

With these photos taken, the team had lunch in a building built entirely of salt before they visited a working salt factory and were given their next clue.  They were to proceed to the Valle De Rocas (Valley of Rocks) and find the highest point.  With the clue received their 4WD raced across the bleak landscape and headed south.

A couple of hours later, the team arrived in more unworldly valley.  Both Simon and Ang raced into the rocky playground.  The three teams set about completing their respective challenges.  Simon spotted a rocky outcrop in the near distance and soon climbed on top.  With this completed, the team were provided with the next clue and set off to visit a ‘Surreal Rock’.

Valle de Rocas Flamingos and mountains
Harry, from Team Organic Hobo summits a rock Bolivian rabbit
Green lichen on tan ground
Panorama of the unreal Bolivian landscape

After spending the night in a small village they continued south through increasingly alien landscape (if that could even be possible).  A brief toilet stop allowed the teams a chance to chat with an Irish guy who had ridden his motorcycle from Alaska (and was lost).  Back on the road and after a few hours of driving, they arrived at the Salvador Dali Rock, an ancient weathered rock formation.  There photographs were taken and the next clue provided to the team.  Once again their 4WD continued south and the team entered the Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve at Largo Colorado.  The night was spent at a sprawling tourist 4WD complex.

Lunch spot panorama
Flamingo portrait Ang mocks the important signage
Panorama of a lake
Flowers and Lake Colorado Simon doing his bit to help green the desert
Salvador Dali rock The three teams meeting for a meal
Hotel workers building another wing on the complex

Early the next morning they continued heading south firstly to a field of active geysers and to hot springs and onto the spectacular Salvador Desert and then on to the beautiful Largo Verde.  More photographs were taken and presented to the park wardens who approved and gave the next clue directing the team to return to Uyuni and to make their way by bus to the town of Tupiza.

Sun rise at best hot springs ever The three teams in the hot springs
Simon and Ang share a special moment Testing the force of the geyser
Ang walking through the geyser zone The earth vents
Ang reprising her fist pump jump from the Monument Valley leg of the race Simon punches it in the Salvador Dali Desert
Ang helping the Organic Hobo guys complete their hand stand photography challenge
Rich Bolivian mountain range

Apart from the spectacular scenery, the return trip to Uyuni was uneventful, with exception of a huge thunderstorm and at one point the 4WD almost bogged in a ditch as a semi trailer passed by.

Abandoned car on the hill Simon goofing around and driving the car
Coca Cola in Bolivia Lewis demonstrating his skill at driving a 4wd

Here is a short video Organic Hobo shot as part of their Exclusive Race:

…To be continued.

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Bolivia 2: La Paz and the World’s Most Dangerous Road

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, one team of two travelled to the Bolivian town of Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titiaca.  There they visited the Isla Del Sol where they received their next clue to travel to La Paz and soon after were on a bus bound for the high altitude city.

The bus ride climbed up away from Copacabana and soon arrived in the estrecho de tiquana (Tiquana Strait), a body of water that needed to be crossed to avoid having to re-enter Peru.  There they disembarked and the bus drove on to a waiting ferry.  Simon and Ang boarded a launch and followed the bus across the straight over to the other side.  The remainder of the bus journey passed without incident and the team soon found themselves in La Paz.

The ‘road’ to La Paz from Copacabana

After checking into accommodation next to the witches’ market, they received their next clue.  They were now required to ride the World’s Most Dangerous Road (WMDR) on downhill mountain bikes.  The vehicle of choice for this extreme event was two dual suspension disc brake down hilling monsters, full face helmets, thick jackets and pants, elbow and shin pads.  After this equipment was chosen, the team returned to their accommodation for the night.

The place for your dead llama fetus shopping needs (they “bring good luck to a new home”) Busy streets of La Paz
Jolly Bolivian guy who gives you real stuff if you give him miniature versions of what you want Ang inside some closter grounds
Bolivian guards being guarded by MPs Standard South American shoe shining
Rooster! ‘Splendid’  ice cream
Typical Bolivian bread street stalls
Panorama of the La Paz city skyline

Leaving early they, along with other exclusive race teams from Australia, Holland and Mexico, raced out of La Paz and to the start of the downhill course.  After a quick safety briefing, they set off on the asphalt road.  Hitting speeds of up to 90km, the team quickly completed the first stage of this challenge, the new road that had been built to replace the original WMDR.

The team is kitted out Ang is ready for some extreme downhilling
Simon’s might steed The downhilling racers stop for a moment to admire the view (Simon and Ang on right)
Ang hits 80km/h Simon breaks a personal MTB speed record
Ang hits 90km/h Cloudy moutains on the warm up section

After some snacks, the team again hit the road, which now had turned into the original dirt WMDR.  Flying down the bumpy and highly rocky road, around blind corners and over small jumps, both Simon and Ang, along with the other teams were able to pass many other riders.  Eventually after 40km of extremeness, they arrived at the base of the hill.  Simon was able to place third and Ang almost crashed on one corner, but high fives and other extreme hand gestures were given all around.  Top recorded speed on this dirt downhill stretch was 50km per hour.

The racers pause for a photo before the dirt road starts The old world’s most dangerous road
A drop off into the clouds Ang scouts out the next stretch
Simon blasts through a waterfall The riders pause to illustrate the position of the road
One of the many crosses on the side of the road
Panorama of the world’s most dangerous road
Simon is really enjoying this challenge
The racers pause for a promotional shot Simon and Ang enjoy the view
Third across the finish line, Simon is congratulated by the lead guide

After a quick lunch, the team was taken back to La Paz where they checked into the pit stop for this leg of the race.

Simon celebrates the conculsion of this leg in style… with ice cream Heading back up the world’s most dangerous road back to La Paz
Sunset on the road back to La Paz
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Bolivia 1: Puno to Copacabana

Simon

At breakfast, both Simon and Ang were excited.  With Puno’s proximity to the border with Bolivia, they knew they would soon be heading south.  Both thought that Bolivia, with its outdoor activities would be likely to provide great racing.

Stomachs full, the team prepared themselves for the challenges that lay ahead.  A clue was handed to them and they commenced racing, first to the bus station.  Arriving they quickly secured tickets, but they were then forced to wait three hours until two pm.  Annoyingly they were forced to listen to a bus tout screaming Arequipa Arequipa over and over again.  Ang got justifiably frustrated as the Arequipa bus wasn’t scheduled to depart until 4pm that afternoon and there is only so many times you can hear ‘ara ara ara areguipa’ and not go mad.

Thankfully, the team’s bus company finally organised a minivan to take the small number of passengers three hours south around Lake Titicaca to the border with Bolivia.  Driving out of Puno, both Simon and Ang were glad to leave as while there wasn’t really anything bad about the place, there was anything nice either.

The drive was relatively uneventful with the team taking in the beautiful lakeside scenery and listening to the remaining passengers, who were mostly Argentine, talk about everything from construction through to musica.

Arriving at the border, the team first had their departure card stamped and collected before they walked back to the passport control office in a separate building.  There they cleared immigration and walked back past the departure card office and up the hill towards an arch way.  Crossing into Bolivia, they completed customs formalities and were soon in a collectivo heading for the town of Copacabana.  Both Ang and Simon agreed that the whole experience was rather relaxed and laid back, and had the added advantage of pleasant scenery to look at while walking between control points.

Entry portal to another country

Arriving in Copacabana, the team walked up the hill and checked into their accommodation with wonderful water views.   Their clue required the team to visit the fabled birthplace of the Incas, the Isla Del Sol.  However, the ATM in Copacabana had issues accepting the team’s cards, meaning they would need to change USD (for a relatively bad rate).  After the day’s travelling and waiting, the team decided to have an early night and rest up.

Waking early, the team went down to the dock.  After a quick breakfast and a second attempt to withdraw money from the ATM, the team jumped onboard a super slow launch bound for the Isla Del Sol.  Simon was briefly concerned that the Island of the Sun would actually be the Island of the rain, as it showered for most of the journey north. The boat itself was so slow and potentially overloaded that it took an inordinate amount of time to reach the northern village.  When they finally did arrive, the team headed further north on foot as their clue required them to walk the island from north to south to receive their next clue.

Happy pig on the Isla del Sol
Dock panorama on the Isla Del Sol

After 20 minutes of walking, they arrived at a gate. There they were stopped by a guy wanting them to pay 10 sols for entry into a ruins site.  Both Ang and Simon agreed that while interesting, this was not part of the challenge and would only delay them.  Plus, they only had 14 sols with them after payment for breakfast and the boat so they could not afford to enter.  Instead, followed by a friendly Frenchman and Argentine girl, the team scrambled up a nearby escarpment and walked around the fenced area to the north.

After a further twenty minutes of walking, the group came to a junction.  There the lead Frenchman was asked to pay for entry to the ruins (which were directly ahead).  He politely refused, and along with the Argentine, Simon and Ang turned to walk south.  The rocky path followed the ridge line and was spectacular.

After about an hour of walking, the team spied a check point.  There two locals were manning a ticketing station alone on top of a hill.  They wanted to charge 15 sols for each person to walk along the path.  Simon and Ang didn’t have that amount of money due to their ATM and exchange issues and the guidebook making no mention of any fees other than boat transport.  After politely saying they had no funds, the two locals gave Simon and Ang entry tickets for five sols each (student rates) for the remaining 14 sols they had.

Simon and Ang continued, though annoyed they didn’t have the funds to pay, but grateful they were still able to do the walk.  They walked past a forest of introduced eucalyptus trees and covered the 10 kms to the next community in rapid time.  There they met the next check point, this time to enter the southern town on the island.  At first the lady didn’t seem to understand, but once Simon showed they didn’t have enough money on his person, she let them pass.  They walked through the southern village down to the dock in time to meet their return boat to Copacabana.

Inca statue to great travellers arriving at the Isla del Sol Temple of the Sun on the Island of the Sun

Racing back at less than 4 knots, the boat eventually returned them to the Copacabana dock.  There they received their next clue directing them to La Paz.  Unfortunately, after trying the second ATM in town, then reluctantly changing some dollars, they were only able to buy bus tickets for the next day, meaning they would need to spend the second night in Copacabana.  The rest of the afternoon was spent walking around town, enjoying a drink in the warm sun and then dinner.

Boating on Lake Titicaca
Panorama of the Copacabana foreshore

Waking, they witnessed the car blessing festival and enjoyed a leisurely brunch before they boarded the second of two buses bound for La Paz.

Square in the middle of Copacabana

…To be continued.

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