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Brazil 3: São Paulo to Trindade

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, Simon and Ang raced through the ultra relaxed country of Uruguay. They marveled at the huge volume of maté the locals consume, and completed a number of challenges in the very relaxed and laid back country. With all their Uruguayan tasks completed, they boarded a flight from Montevideo north to the Brazilian mega city of São Paulo..

The team’s Gol airways flight touched down in the early evening and the team raced out of the airport hunting for transport to their next destination, the colonial port town of Paraty. They jumped on the airport shuttle and just made it in time to the Tietê bus station. Once there and after the team found the right ticket window, they bought tickets on an overnight bus to Paraty that was departing moments later. Simon and Ang raced through the bus station for a second time to the right gate, just in time to board the overnight bus. Unlike their previous overnight ride in Brazil, this one was not too noisy, with only the last hour’s continuous speed bumps interrupting the team’s attempts at sleeping.

Arriving at Paraty, the team jumped off the bus at 3.40am along with a few locals at the deserted bus station. There they met a friendly Brazilian lady called Monica who had also just got off the bus. She surprised the team by telling them that their surprise destination was actually the nearby seaside small town of Trindade. Simon and Ang were excited as the town and importantly beaches sounded awesome. As the first local bus to Trindade wasn’t until 5.20am, the team occupied themselves by chatting with Monica and looking for a working ATM.

Soon the sky lightened and the first local bus of the day pulled in. Simon and Ang jumped on with Monica and immediately the driver shot off into the early pre-dawn light at hellish speed. Passing the outskirts of Paraty, the road entered the jungle and became more twisted than a curled twisty. The driver obviously enjoyed this part of the journey as he put the pedal to the metal, with the bus becoming airborne at one point. Ang rightly squealed, which only seemed to egg the driver on even more.

Minutes before sunrise proper, the bus crossed through a flooded creek and over some rocks and into the small town of Trindade. The team jumped out and raced to the Mairs Do Trindade, a pousada that Monica said was run by the ever friendly Lucas, an Argentine expat living the good life in Brazil. As it was a little after 6am at this point and Lucas was still fast asleep, so the team was unable to check in. They left their bags and went down to the spectacular beach to watch the day lighten properly and chat with Monica while they waited for Lucas to wake up and check them in to the finish of this leg of the race.

Main road into town
Brazilian sunrise

At a little after 8 am they returned to the Mairs Do Trindade. Lucas had just woken and he informed the team that they were the first to arrive. As the first team to arrive, they were given a reward, they were to spend the next four days enjoying the beach and surrounds that this part of Brazil could offer.

Ang and Simon were excited to win yet another race, and after a rest, set out to explore all the nearby awesome beaches.  They consumed a number of caipirinhas and enjoyed the relaxed pace of Brazilian small town beach life. They went on walks north and south of the town to stunning beaches the nearby Playa Brava. They also took a couple of day/night trips into Paraty for excellent food and to watch the old town flood for the month.

Beach time
Yo dog
Ang hits the beach
Paraty Red window trim, Paraty
Paraty twilight
Cobble streets Paraty
15th century church Flooding Paraty streets
Self cleaning streets
Paraty pony Paraty bike
oooh pretty street scape
Restaurant (with mandatory bike) Paraty Caipirinhas!
Delicious!

When they weren’t relaxing, one of the team’s favourite things to do was to watch the Trindade locals walk around with cafe umbrellas when it rained (as it did often in the late arvo given the tropical heat). They also enjoyed making friends with other holiday makers, all of whom were Brazilian tourists.

Lots of rain can only be stopped by cafe umbrellas Yellow giant umbrella and matching shirt
Sleepy cat
Long Paraty building
Townscape in Paraty
Relaxed dog Defaced legal tender
Another Paraty pony Street of Fire
Daytime unflooded street
Paraty bay Paraty party boats
No words Paraty bus station
More caipirinhas! Dessert deliciousness

On the final morning, after an enjoyable rest period, it was sadly time to check out of the pitstop. They were given their first clue for the upcoming leg of the race. Tearing open the envelope and reading the clue, the team found they were directed to make their way back to Rio De Janeiro for a second time!

They jumped into a random van that took them back to Paraty, where they bought tickets on the direct bus to Rio. Five hours later the team arrived once again at Rodoviária Novo Rio. They raced out and straight into a waiting cab, as this was non-carnival time and there were hardly any people around.

Marine Pirates!

To be continued…

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Argentina 9 – Buenos Aires Porteño Party

Simon

Previously on the Amazing exclusive race, one team of two raced to the capital of Argentina, Buenos Aires. After completing several tasks around the a city that could be the New York of Latin America, they returned to their hostel for a brief rest.

Up early, at 11 am, the team headed out and raced to a huge shopping center in the sprawl of BA. They ran around multistory mall, finding two other McDonald’s before they located their challenge location. Fearing they would be required to sample some of the food (both Simon and Ang had gone years without eating any McDonald’s), the team was relieved when they read that they were to make their way to the historic suburb of La Boca. Simon and Ang mused as to the novelty of the kosher McDonald’s as they bounded down the escalators and out into the street. They were on a bus soon after and were racing to through the streets of BA.

Argentine dog with stick
Palermo panorama
Kosher McDonald’s? Yep, in BA Obelisk

Changing in central BA, the team boarded a second bus to La Boca. La Boca is a famous working class neighborhood home to the Boca Juniors. The team’s task was to find Caminito and take some photos of the colourful buildings along the street.

La Boca Caminito (or calle turística) The racers pause for a moment to enjoy the local colour

After arriving they quickly made their way around the streets. Simon and Ang both thought the houses reminded them of Valparaiso except the terrain was flatter. Having completed the La Boca challenge, the team was directed back to the hostel. Simon and Ang decided that since they were so near to the home of the Boca Juniors, they would go and have a look at the Stadium, La Bombonera. They had a look at the stadium and all of the blue and yellow merchandise, before walking back to the bus stop, noticing the shutters and roller doors on all the houses that lined the nearby streets.

La puerto del Boca panorámica
Caminito, La Boca
Caminito panorama
Caminito vendors
Torre Monumental (formally English clock tower) Mas Helados – dos para uno todos las lunes

On the way back to the hostel, the team stopped off at Puerto Madero to walk along the waterfront and checked out the pink house, Argentina’s presidential palace. They then rode the subway the remaining distance back to the hostel. Arriving back on the red roof they were given their next challenge. They were given tickets to attend a Boca Junior game the next evening!

As they had some time to kill, they extended their stay at the hostel, then set out to meet up with Chris and Rita from team America for dinner and a modern tango show. The event was highly entertaining and after they had the mandatory helados, the team returned to their hostel for the night.

Homeless, but has a TV?
Modern tango Not a computer
Palermo Skyline

Waking the next morning, and with no great urgency, the team walked about Palermo and the local parks watching people slack line and enjoy the great weather. As the afternoon approached, the team left the hostel for the journey across the city back to La Boca and La Bombonera for the friendly Boca Junior versus Venezuela soccer match.

Palermo rose garden BA slackliners
The good flavour…Not sure if they served croc Tastey beef
Funky BA cafe BA street art
Bakery The bread… 20 pesos. Sexy eyes… free
Que rico postres! Yellow car

Thinking they would have plenty of time since the game didn’t start until 8pm, they change from the subway and waited for a bus with a bunch of Boca fans. Simon and Ang had no luck getting on board a bus, as they were either completely full of singing Boca fans or the drivers didn’t seem to want to pick up the crowd gathered at the stop. After waiting for thirty minutes, Simon and Ang decided to catch another bus that was going roughly in the right direction (along with some other fans), and then walked the remaining kilometers to the ground.

As they walked, they were joined by hundreds of mad Boca fans streaming in the direction of the ground. Many were signing various club songs, and their pace of walking quickened as it neared 6.30, an hour before game time. Simon and Ang also quicken their pace, not wanting to be left behind. They were soon at the southern end of the game and after asking a local for directions (“disculpa, donde es puerta ocho?”), they arrived at their gate. They made their way through the police check points and discarded their water (Bocas games are notorious for people throwing urine at other fans), reaching their section (no seats) just in time for kick off. Ang and Simon jumped and sang along with what they both agreed was the most energetic passionate crowd they had ever been part of. Ever. For the record, Junior won, two nil.

Gooooooooooooooooool! Post match celebrations complete with riot police entertainment

With the game over, the team was directed to return to the hostel, but had to wait out the mandatory thirty minute holding period to allow Venezuelan fans a chance to escape. They then joined the singing throngs making their way back into the center of the city. They walked the entire distance to el Centro where they then jumped on a subway back to the hostel. As it was a little after midnight by this stage, and the team was hungry, they detoured into the heart of Palermo for some more asado, this time at the delightful Don Julio. Despite being seated at 12.30am, the restaurant was still filling up with many arriving after the team ate for their evening meal.

Both Simon and Ang decided that this was the life as they ate their steak and toasted malbec. Stomachs full and with Boca club songs still ringing in their ears, they made their way back to the hostel roof. On the way through reception they extended their stay once again (the receptionist just laughed). Once on the roof they were given their final BA challenge, this would be to check a range of cultural attractions.

The next day they visited the galleries of Eduardo Savior and Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (Malba), checked out the Opera Pampa, raced into the city heart to visit El Ateneo, before racing on to La Cabera for some delicious paradilla meals along with teams from America. Their last stop for the night was the funky bar Magderlina’s Party. With these challenges complete, the team raced back to the roof of their hostel, the pitstop for this leg of the Race. Simon and Ang were once again the first to arrive.

Giant round about statue Organic seat in the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires
The racers stop for a refreshment in a 1950s inspired American diner cafe Palmero Funky light fixture
Ang drinking a ridiculous coffee
The world’s second most beautiful book shop El Ateneo
Palermo street nightscape Last to leave the restaurant

As both Simon and Ang had thoroughly enjoyed BA, they requested an extended rest period. The hostel reception staff were able to extend their stay, so the team could live the Porteño lifestyle a little longer.

By far the best helados ever – Cremolatti Classic out front of Don Jesus
Cool organic cafe Yet another classic
Metal school bus
BA blue sky Asado de bife – note the hand for comparison purposes
Just when you thought you’d left South America – shrine to Difunta Correa … and the ubiquitous party train

In a post race interview, both Simon and Ang were impressed with Buenos Aires. Simon called it the ‘Latin American New York’ and Ang said ‘it was downright awesome’!

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Chile 5: Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt

Simon

After the optional rest period, the team received their next clue checked out of the pit stop.  They were directed to make their way by boat to the city of Puerto Montt. Simon and Ang wasted no time and set off through Puerto Natales to the port.  There they enquired about boat options and directed to the Navimag office.

Pier to nowhere Puppies!

Passage was negotiated and tickets purchased. Having heard good things about this trip, Simon and Ang were looking forward to cruising the Chilean fjords. They had also heard that BYO wine was allowed, so after buying a couple of Chilean reds, they checked their baggage in and had dinner at a local parradilla, along with Team Wales and the mixed Team Australia and England from the Torres Del Paine leg.

Intrepid racers pause for a cross promotional photo opportunity

Soon it was time to board.  The trip began well with the team enjoying the humorous multilingual guide’s briefing.  Once all the passengers had walked on board and the cargo was eventually loaded early the next morning, the ferry set sail.  Simon and Ang were provided with their one task for this leg of the race, to spot a blue whale.

The mighty Navimag hauling stuff

The next three days of sailing was spent doing very little other than chatting and sharing wine with friendly teams from England and America, that ever plucky team from Wales, and a Team Canada, last seen during the Antarctic leg of the race.  Highlights of the voyage included completing the blue whale sighting challenge, bingo and an epic 5 on 1 on-deck giant chess game. Low point for Ang was the overnight crossing through the Golfo De Penas (Golf of Pain – no prizes for guessing why).

Fjords panorama!
Glacier panorama!
Early version of the Navimag
High tech Navimag bridge equipment That wheel makes the boat go faster
Most likely a blue whale Strato volcano and chess!

After four days of sailing, the ship arrived at Puerto Montt early in the morning and the team received their next clue.

Sunset on the Navimag Early morning end of the cruise

… To be continued.

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Chile 1: Ushuaia to Torres Del Paine

Simon

After the mandatory rest period, the team collected their next clue and embarked on the next leg of the Amazing Exclusive Race.  They were to make their way to the world famous Torres Del Paine national park in Chile and complete a full circuit, after which they would receive their next clue.

Quickly they ran down to the bus stop and soon were making their way out of Ushuaia.  Their bus wound its way through the Tierra Del Fuego, an almost unspoilt wilderness.  Their route took them across the narrow stretch of water that took them onto the mainland then on to the border with Chile.

The team races to their early morning bus Waiting to enter Chile
Tierra Del Fuego Ferry panorama

After an uneventful trip through customs, they arrived at Punta Arenas, the stopover before their onward bus to Puerto Natales. The team joined a solo racer from France for a walk around town and a quick dinner before they were back on the bus heading to Puerto Natales. The remaining trip passed without incident.

Patagonian puppy Punta Arenas sky

They arrived into Natales after dark and weirdly saw a giant Mylodon on a round about as they made their way into town. With the bus trip over and there needing to be some preparation time before they would be allowed to embark on the 9 day continuous hike around the circuit, Simon and Ang checked into the Singing Lamb Backpackers for the night.

Waking the next morning to homemade bread and gourmet porridge, they quickly set about acquiring the necessary camping gear and buying enough supplies to last them the entire circuit. As they were racing, both Simon and Ang decided to deliberately only buy enough food and take enough cooking gas to last 6 days. Ang said “we always complete walks faster than the advertised times and we were full of confidence after the Inca trail, we knew we’d have enough food”. They also decided to only take Simon’s big backpack and a smaller day pack and leave the rest of their gear at the most hospitable Singing Lamb hostel.

Next morning the team boarded an early morning bus to the National park along with a variety of Teams from other countries on their own exclusive races. Simon and Ang were both excited as they had planned an aggressive walking schedule for the first day which they were confident in doing. They had joined up with two solo member teams from Germany and America. Their first day’s walking would be approximately 35 kms.

Arriving at the park at 11am on the shuttle bus, the teams set off from Laguna Amarguna to Refugio Dickson in an anticlockwise direction around the circuit as the Torres were shrouded in fog and clouds.  The hike started easily enough.  Simon handled the 20kg+ pack well, but unfortunately soon Ang’s feet were hurting in her recently purchased (from Ushuaia), slightly too small for her feet, shoes.  The teams arrived at the first campsite at the 12km mark and were allowed to continue on to the next campsite.

The team pose for a photo before starting the walk
Paine panorama
That way!

They all kept up a solid pace and ate into the remaining kms. Simon and Ang were both amazed at the awesome view along the back side of the circuit. At one point, two majestic enormous condors glided overhead. Later on they were stopped and quizzed by two park rangers, as apparently their aggressive walking plan was frowned upon. Simon and Ang shrugged this off as they knew they needed to keep up a quick pace to win this race.

25km into the walk climbing a small unexpected hill
Simon’s enormous pack Ang’s… eh pack
Despite shoe pain, Ang is enjoying this challenge

After hours of walking, the team arrived just before dusk at their first campsite for the night, the Refugio Dickson. There they made camp, cooked up the first of their rather plain food and dried out in the Refugio by the warm fire, preparing for the next day.  Ang’s feet were not in a good state, so the team adjusted their plan for the next leg of the hike.

…To be continued

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Antarctica 4: Paradise Bay to Ushuaia

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, one team of two raced all the way south to the mysterious continent of Antarctica.  There they embarked on a series of amazing ice bound challenges.  After receiving a surprise second camping challenge and spending a night under the stars, the team woke early the next morning.

Bivy bags were quickly packed and gear stowed in its carry bags.  With the camping area cleared, the various teams, including Simon and Ang, were given their next clues.  They all raced down to the landing point and jumped into a zodiac for the ride back to the Plancius. Simon enjoyed the night, but was glad to get back to the Plancius to empty the esky.

After a nice long warm shower, the team were treated to another great breakfast as anchors were raised. Yet another fantastic navigation was enjoyed with the team observing many small minke whales, larger humpbacks, lone ranger penguins and the occasional seal amongst the ice bergs and flows.

Iceberg cake! More iceberg cake!
Simon mucking around on deck

For their last challenge in Antarctic waters, Simon and Ang were given their final clue.  Ang was to complete a final zodiac cruise along side an enormous glacier whilst Simon was to paddle a kayak for the second and last time around Cierva Cove. The Plancius dropped anchor and the zodiacs and kayaks were deployed. There was a fair degree of excitement, sadness and dread in the air.  This would be the last chance to experience the Antarctic wilderness before the ship headed north and into the Drake once again. The sky was magic.

Kayaking gear on the railing ready to be put on Simon about to boat
Even more iceberg cake!

Simon’s first impression as he boarded the last zodiac to leave the ship that this was going to be an experience to remember.  In the distance, a huge snow covered sheet of ice slopped down into the sea with a massive rock massif jutting out of it, like a giant crashed alien spaceship.  The beams of sunlight and the haze gave the impression they were about to enter a special place.

Out of this world Antarctica An unknown Exclusive Race team about to start paddling

Simon’s zodiac raced over to the mother ship zodiac and the final group of kayakers boarded their boats for the last paddle. A nearby leopard seal kept its distance and the group set off into the frozen ice berg wasteland. Simon had started grinning earlier on the gangplank, and now could only grin more as he pushed his way through the brash ice and around the growlers, bergy bits and proper massive ice bergs.  At times he was leading the pack of paddlers, using the kayak’s strong bow to break a path through the ice for the rest.  At other times, he played the nudge the giant carving iceberg game and tried to take photos of the amazing flocks of swimming Gentoos racing by. Simon didn’t stop grinning and despite being in a race, he considered making a run for shore to stay longer when it was finally time to get back in the zodiac and return to the ship.

Plancius on the horizon Kayak covered in ice!
Ice mountain! Iceberg ice field… brrrrrr icy
Team France paddling to complete this fantastic challenge Kayak… iceberg… majestic bird…

Ang said “The zodiac cruise was breath taking. I was so glad to have shared it with a wonderful new friend Sue from Team Sydney. The lighting was magic and the great white continent was saying good bye in all its glory. I had a teary moment as we sat in silence. I got to see  a leopard seal right up close lazing in the sun and two orca playing around, it couldn’t have been a better good bye”

Leopard spots Leopard smile
Only thing more dangerous than a leopard seal… robo leopard seal Soft leopard fur
Pure wilderness and a zodiac Iceberg minty!
Slushy land

With this challenge completed, both Simon and Ang returned to the Plancius and were given their next clue. They were to return to Ushuaia, and on the return journey they were to enter a ship wide photography competition. Outside, all the boats zodiacs loaded, the boat weighed anchor and sadly embarked north.  The team spent until nightfall sipping drinks in the lounge, watching the amazing wilderness slip by and worked on their photos for the photography competition, the final task for this leg of the race.

Delicious iceberg cake Smooth iceberg cake

Sadly, the ship reached open ocean and once again the passengers were advised to ‘keep one hand for the ship and one hand for yourself’.  Simon finished the editing on the photos on behalf of Ang (who had returned to her Drake passage horizontal bed spot).  With entry made into the competition, Simon celebrated completing the challenge by enjoying a selection of surprisingly reasonably priced red wines and the company of the other non-sea sick team members.

Simon mucking around in the Drake

After two days of sailing, Simon and Ryan from Team Canada finished a mid Drake passage shaving challenge, the Plancius arrived into the calm waters of the Beagle channel. For this final night, cocktails were had, and the teams enjoyed the calm navigation back into Argentine waters.  The final task of for this leg of the race was then judged and Ang won the photography competition with her fantastic shot of the unreal Petermann landscape.

Solution to seasickness… pirate port! Plancius gps track almost at an end

Collecting her prize jacket and accolades from the other teams, Ang was emotional and teary. She was given the final clue, and the team was directed to return to the port of Ushuaia, the pit stop for this leg of the race. After a restful final night’s sleep, the team was woken early. They dressed and watched as the Plancius was edged into the docking position.

Ushuaia early morning panorama
Edging into the dock

Bags were collected and the team walked down the gangplank.  There they were met by their agent and checked into the pit stop.  Once again they were the first team to arrive.

British vessels not allowed

In a post race interview, Simon and Ang both expressed their sheer amazement that they were the first team to visit the amazing Antarctic wilderness. Simon and Ang both agreed that “Antarctica exceeded our expectations in every way.  I definitely will be coming back.  Ang said “it’s such an incredible place that no words nor photos can ever describe the awe and sheer amazement and beauty of the place”. They both agreed that if they had the chance to get back on the Plancius and head back straight away (like one Team France did), they would in a heartbeat. They were both pleased to have won the first ever race leg to Antarctica. Knowing that they were in a race and that they would soon leave the pit stop for the next destination unknown, both Simon and Ang set about enjoying the optional rest period.

Still penguin mad during the optional rest period Penguin meringues
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Antarctica 3: Paradise Bay

Simon

The aptly name Paradise Bay was the Team’s icy anchorage overnight while they rested ahead of their eighth day of this first ever destination for the Amazing Exclusive Race. After their restful night’s sleep, the team was woken early the next morning. While they munched on yet another fantastic breakfast, the anchors were raised.

Ang and Simon, along with another Team Australia discuss the navigation Spectacular

The Plancius quickly got underway and steamed north around a spectacular headland and towards a distant bay.  Both Simon and Ang were amazed at the jaw dropping scenery as massive ice bergs and bergy bits floated by.  They marvelled at the lighting on the mountains and sea and enjoyed the whole navigation until the ship arrived in Neko Harbour.  There the anchor was lowered and Simon and Ang received their next clue.

Approaching Neko Harbour
Like a giant iced cake in the morning sun
Simply spectacular

Simon’s task for this challenge was to snowshoe mountaineer to the top of the hill overlooking the Harbour and take panoramas.  Ang’s was to get into a kayak and paddle around massive dying ice bergs that were stuck in the harbour.  Both team members joined the others in their respective challenges and set off.

Glacier up close Standard wind-swept ice formation

Ang said that “the kayak challenge was the most stunning ride I’d ever been on. The lighting was breathtaking and the birds were beautiful. At one point the winds picked up out of nowhere really rapidly and the group immediately turned in the opposite direction for safety and shelter”. Ang had a big grin from ear to ear when she paddled back to the beach at Neko harbour.

Simon found the climb easy, and took time to enjoy the view in the relatively warm temperatures.  He took the required photographs and joined the other hikeneers on the easy walk down the high hill.  On the return journey, Team Canada asked if Simon would be doing the swim challenge.  Having not yet received that clue, but keen to have a go, Simon said, “I will if you will…”.  Arriving at the bottom of the hill and at the beach, Simon watched as other Teams completed their polar dip challenge. Team Canada thought Simon had stitched them up. It wasn’t until Ang returned from her kayak leg that Simon and Ang were provided with their next task.

Hikeneers climb the hill
Panorama of Neko Harbour from the top of the hill
Simon tries to point to the ship (it’s so cold one of his hands are blue)

This challenge, a road block, required one team member to take a cool dip in the southern ocean.  Of course Simon said yes, and he quickly stripped down and changed into board shorts.  Putting on the Antarctica hat carried all the way from Brazil, he raced into the freezing water. Simon later said, “I had nothing to compare the temperature to, as the coldest water I’ve previously swam in was a barmy 16 degrees.  It burnt, but the worst bit was the cold sand afterwards on my feet!”. Ang was asked if she wanted to swim as well, just for the hell of it, but said “are you crazy!” in reply. With the challenge completed, the team was directed back the Plancius and given their next task.  They were to make their way back to Paradise Bay and go leopard seal spotting.

Simon completes the swimming challenge in style (photo courtesy Laurent Dick) Simon emerges from the water from another angle
Challenge completed, the next clue is provided

After yet another great lunch and an exciting navigation, the team arrived back in Paradise Bay.  The first activity was a zodiac cruise around the ice berg clogged bay.  After witnessing several carvings, some shy crab-eater seals, the team’s patience was rewarded by seeing not one but two leopard seals. Simon and Ang marvelled at these huge dinosaur like creatures.  They were stunned as one swam slowly around the zodiacs for a good half hour, almost sizing up the boat for potential meal or mating purposes.  With this challenge completed, the team were given their next clue by the boat driver.  They were to complete a bobsled challenge in Antarctica!

Iceberg volcano! More icebergs
Lone ranger penguin Plancius bow
Nose of the leopard Climbers at the peak

After being deposited at nearby Base Almirante Brown, the team climbed up the hill behind the base and Simon jumped onto a plastic bag for a bobsled by a friendly Team Ireland member.  He raced down the hill, hooting all the way, and quickly climbed back up again to give Ang the bag for her turn.  Ang shot down quickly and soon was running back up the hill.  They had completed the challenge, but since it was so fun, the team decided to do another run each! With the fun completed, the team headed back to the landing point and after a cool mini zodiac cruise, the team assisted Team France in the collection of a 30kg chunk of ice from the sea for delivery to the bar.

Base Brown and bobsled course behind
Simon jumps above base Brown Snow chicken!
Zodiac and ice Seal enjoying the hot Antarctic day
Rocket penguin! Icy!
Perfect for a cocktail The black sheep iceberg of the family
Simon lugging the ice for Team France Big hunk of ice in the bar

Following a delicious dinner while waiting for the next challenge, Ang, who was thoroughly  enjoying this leg of the race, organised a private zodiac cruise so she and Simon could experience five minutes of complete silence as promised in the welcome briefing. They would help drop off the campers then go for their cruise on the way back to the boat.

After dropping off one load, the team along with Jim, an expedition staff member, returned to the Plancius for the last of the campers. There they were given another surprise camping challenge by one of the Russian crew!  They were to spend another night sleeping outdoors, this time in Bivi bags.  Simon and Ang were ecstatic as this was completely unexpected. They quickly deposited the last of the campers at the landing site. Andrew, the Australia expedition camping staff member called the team ‘Silly Australians’ and accused Simon and Ang of planning this surprise camping challenge. The team was just as shocked, but were pumped at getting another chance to sleep al naturale in a polar region.  Plus, they still would be able to complete their private zodiac cruise, as Jim took them away from the camp landing site and into the dark.

Arriving in the middle of an ice field about a kilometre away from the Plancius and camp site, radios were switched off and the three humans floated and enjoyed the silence… of a huge amount of ice crunching and grinding against itself. Simon noticed fairly early that in the near distance an ice berg was floating towards their boat. He also noticed that this ice berg had a long black sausage like shape on it, suggesting a seal of some sort. Figuring that collision with the zodiac was likely, and probably on Ang’s side, Simon’s main concern was that the seal would be awoken by Ang’s scream of terror.

As the ice berg came closer, Simon’s eyes darted between the seal and Ang.  Suddenly, Simon could see the whites of Ang’s eyes.  She didn’t scream, but was obviously frightened.  Moments later the berg with the sleeping seal crunched into the zodiac.  All the team could hear was a snoring seal!  With that amazing moment completed, and the five minutes up, Jim started the engines and motored the team back over to the camp site.  There they went ashore, grabbed their camp gear and joined the other happy campers on the snow.

Unpacking the bivy The team prepares to sleep out in the open

Sleep came quickly after the action packed day and was only interrupted by the occasional carving of the massive nearby glacier.

…To be continued.

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Antarctica 2: Port Lockroy to Paradise Bay

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, Team Australia embarked an epic voyage south out of South America to Antarctica. After a turbulent and seasick mired trip across the infamous Drake Passage, the Plancius navigated the Neumayer channel and arrived in the calm waters around Goudier Island. There they embarked on a series of challenges including kayaking, hiking and finally an amazing night of camping.

Waking early the next morning, the team packed their bedding the set about enjoying the surrounding area. Many photographs were taken and, after Simon climbed to the top of the nearby hill, they returned to the zodiacs and the Plancius for bathrooms and breakfast. Receiving their next clue after eating, the team attended the photography workshop briefing.

Early morning at the camp site

Laurent, a French-American Associated Press contract photographer, provided the team with their next challenge. They were tasked with photographing wildlife in its natural environment focusing in on taking a strong photograph. With the briefing completed, Simon and Ang boarded a zodiac and were shuttled to shore at Dorian Bay. There they carefully made their way around the Gentoo penguin rookery and took the required photographs. Simon and Ang both agreed that they took too many photographs of Gentoos, that they poo a lot and they are completely awesome creatures.

Ice! Cool Gentoos in their cool home
A Gentoo takes time out of its busy schedule to pose for a photo Stretching Gentoo
The magical Antarctic landscape Malting Gentoo!
A penguin trying to re-evolve the capability to fly A Gentoo finishes its swim
Gentoo filth

Racing back to the Plancius, after a quick zodiac cruise to photograph some otherworldly icebergs clogging Dorian Bay, they had yet another delicious lunch and were given a road block. They were to complete a snowshoe hike to the top of a hill where one of the team members was required to build a snowman. As Simon had never built one before, he volunteered to complete the challenge. Reaching the top of the hill, Simon completed his snowman quickly, using algae smears for eyes, and the team was allowed to continue of the snowshoe hike. Half way up the next hill, another task was presented.

Swan ice berg
Rookery panorama
Simon and Ang celebrate completing the snow man challenge
Snow shoeing panorama

Three separate Amazing Exclusive race teams, Simon from Team Australia, Ray and Damo from another Team Australia and Ryan from Team Canada, were required to have a snowball fight. Each team fought valiantly and they were all given their respective next clues. After a quick visit to the old 1980s Damoy research hut and spotting of a lone chin strap penguin and random Chilean Navy ship, the team returned to the waiting zodiacs and headed back to the Plancius. Yet another delicious dinner was had along with great company and lots of wine, after which Simon and Ang retired for the night.

Moments later a snow ball fight erupted
Ang enjoying a moment on the rocks The Chilean navy arrives

In the morning, preparations were made for the Plancius’ departure. The previous nights camping had been cancelled due to dangerous winds so the crew was out early packing up the campsite and collecting the tents that had been blown off into the channel during the night. With one of the three missing tents recovered, the Plancius raised its anchor. A course was set for the spectacular Leimer channel and the team was tasked with enjoying this navigation in all its splendour. The weather was clear and the steep Antarctic mountains majestic. Most of the passengers were on deck and those who were not, were looking through one of the many windows so they could complete the Leimer Navigation challenge.

Ants in Antarctica! This photo completes Gail’s challenge More other worldly landscape
Recovery of one of the tents
Leimer channel panorama
Another amazing coastline
Layers of ice
Ice berg!
Blue ice berg with very little air in it

After this navigation was complete the Plancius continued on to the Argentine Islands. As the ship approached, the weather turned rainy. Simon and Ang were given two choices of challenges to complete. Simon elected to complete the hikeneering challenge and Ang went to complete another photography challenge by photographing the historic Wordie House.

Simon’s task was relatively straight forward and involved climbing a small hill that overlooked the Ukrainian Vernadsky Station, before walking down the hill to the station itself, whilst wearing snowshoes. This task was completed quickly by Simon, mainly because it was raining on and off and a little bit too cold this day. Simon said at the time that “this was a pretty easy walking challenge, but the landscape was still utterly spectacular due to the bleak weather. I just wish I had some way to keep the rain off the lens of the camera and a few more moments to make the snowman I made even more epic in size”.

Ang set out to complete her task and soon had taken some fantastic photographs of another historic British station, Wordie House. Unfortunately she was the last Exclusive Racer to leave the hut and was almost left behind on the little island. Ang luckily was able to hitch a ride on the zodiac that had come to close up the hut.

Classic Wordie House (as it was left) Wordie House pantry

Both Ang and Simon then completed separate guided tours of the working Vernadsky station. This base had been purchased from the British by the Ukrainians and includes a, until recently, working bar. Unlike the ice free Port Lockroy, Vernadsky had been isolated for most of the summer and so had only seen one other supply ship before the Plancius’ arrival. Simon and Ang both noticed the slightly scared and unusual way the Ukrainian scientists conducted their respective tours. Simon said that “I particularly liked the wall of over winter fame, with the crazy deranged types and one Ukrainian researcher who was doing an impersonation of a suave sea captain saying ‘hello ladies'”. After checking out the Faraday bar, the team completed this challenge. The damp team soon reunited back on the Plancius to trade stories.

Ukrainian humour at Vernadsky Station Simon completes the pour a beer challenge behind the Faraday bar in Vernadsky
Cracking jokes with the other team Australias on board the Plancius Another delicious desert

Overnight, to escape the wind, the Plancius motored north. Waking, the team found themselves floating next to a high Antarctic fjord. The challenge for today was to walk around the other worldly Petermann Island, whilst other teams attempted to summit Mt Scott.

The view from the deck outside the team’s cabin

Owing to the high winds, Simon and Ang, along with the other exclusive race teams, were rapidly shuttled ashore. There they completed an excellent hike that included photographing a variety of wildlife and unexpected animal behaviours. They also took a large number of stunning landscape photographs.

Happy feet! Damo gets told off by a Gentoo
Green Antarctica on Petermann Penguin egg!

After summiting the small peak on the island and observing a Gentoo build a wind break for its feet with specially selected rocks, Simon reunited with Ang and they returned to the ship, having completed the challenge for the morning.

Gentoo building a wall Seals and Penguins living side by side in perfect harmony
Seal portrait

Soon the mountaineers returned and the ship steamed north. The afternoon’s activities included navigation up the Lemaire channel to Paradise Bay, a calm, spectacular anchorage, where they spent the night.

Twin peaks panorama
Ice berg floats by the window

…To be continued.

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Antarctica 1: Ushuaia to Port Lockroy

Simon

In a first ever, the Amazing Exclusive Race is the first race to travel to the white Continent.  With such a historic and momentous race leg, Simon and Ang were exceptionally excited in the lead up to departure aboard the Plancius.

Finally the evening of the 27th of February arrived.  The team was collected by their agent and driven to right to the gang plank.  They boarded the ship, after taking a few photos to mark this momentous occasion, and were shown their cabin.  Soon the other remaining exclusive race passengers had boarded and the Plancius weighed anchor and steamed south towards the bottom of the world as the sun set over Terre Del Feugro.

After being introduced to the highly qualified expedition staff and hilarious Russian captain, the team completed their first challenge, a lifeboat safety drill.  With this completed, the team was given some free time to enjoy the navigation of the Beagle channel and prepare for the upcoming dreaded Drake Passage as twilight fell.

Simon particularly enjoyed the crew introductions and the hilarious typically Russian way the Russian captain said they were probably not going to get smooth water crossing the Drake, but that he was still hopeful.  With the formalities completed, Simon and Ang settled into life aboard the ship, exploring and meeting some of the other exclusive race teams.  After dinner, they retired for the night as the Plancius headed out into open ocean, toward the white unknown.

The second day of this historic challenge commenced with the boat formally in the waters of the Drake Passage.  The waters are relatively calm, but Ang, true to form, was not feeling the best.  She retired to her bed in the cabin where she would spend the next 48 hours.  Simon was relatively unaffected and entertained himself talking with the few other exclusive race team members who were not seasick.

By the afternoon of the third day, team found themselves in the waters around the South Shetland islands.  This was the first glimpse of land in two days and Simon joined some of the other passengers on deck to photograph the islands as the ship rocked by. At this point Ang was feeling better, but still is not in any shape to leave her bed.

The next morning, the team found themselves arriving into the smooth waters of the Neumayer channel and on final approach to Port Lockroy on Goudier Island.  After the ship ploughed its way though some brash ice, the anchor was dropped and the team received their first challenge.  They were to complete a kayaking challenge along with other experienced kayakers in the first group of exclusive racers.  Simon and Ang attended the safety briefing and donned their neoprene wetsuits, decking, safety equipment and selected their tandem kayak.

The Plancius breaks its way to Port Lockroy
Plancius clears the ice and approaches Lockroy

The kayaks were then all lowered into the water and Simon and Ang joined the other racers in the first group aboard the mothership zodiacs.  Deployment followed soon after and all racers were paddling around the amazing bay.

Ang and Simon once again in a tandem kayak completing the paddle next to ice bergs challenge Ang takes it all in
The team on the freezing waters are all smiles

After about twenty minutes, one solo member of a team America rolled his kayak.  He was rapidly pulled back into the safety zodiac and soon resumed paddling.  Simon and Ang were amazed at this, but focused back on their main task for this challenge and set about getting themselves as close to wildlife and bergie bits as safely as possible.  With this challenge completed, Pete, the kayak guide gave them their next clue and directed them to visit the Port Lockroy station where they were to send post cards.

Port Lockroy is a British station that is operated on behalf of the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust.  The station sees approximately 150 cruise ship visits per year and helps raise funds for the restoration of a variety of historic Antarctic structures.  The station is an operating post office and is staffed by three specially selected volunteers.  For the last two years, these have all been ladies.

Racing ashore, Simon and Ang were met by hundreds of hilarious Gentoo penguins and the odd seal. The team quickly made their way into the station where they each wrote a post card. As the station was being closed for the winter and the next mail ship wasn’t due until November, the team’s postcards won’t be delivered until Christmas 2012.

Noble Port Lockroy Inside Port Lockroy, the team correctly located the perfect fried penguin breast receipe
The team pauses for a photo outside of Port Lockroy These are British penguins
Simon conversates with a penguin Ang amongst the penguins

With this challenge completed, the team explored the rest of the preserved station and then went outside to watch the penguins do their thing.  Both Simon and Ang agreed that it was hard not to photograph the funny little guys, but as they were racing they had to pull themselves away and return to the zodiacs for lunch onboard the Plancius.

Antarctic bobsled team! Penguin audience

After a delicious meal, the team was handed their next clue.  They were to complete a hike around Jougla Point near the Port Lockroy station.  Sadly Ang had to return to the ship earlier in a hurry as bathroom stops are not allowed on land, but Simon carried on alone and soon completed the spectacular circuit. Near the end of the walk, Simon was approached by two curious penguins.  They kept on shuffling forward and pausing to turn their heads sideways to look at Simon.  Eventually they arrived at his feet.  Simon thought they were going to present him with a medal or at least some krill. Instead they promptly commenced pecking his boots.  Simon said of this encounter that “until they started pecking my feet I thought they must’ve been thinking I was a giant penguin. Hilarious!”.

Jougla Point panorama towards Port Lockroy Even more penguins
Pile of Penguins!
Moments later they pecked Simon’s boots Hello penguin!
Whale bones!
Penguin rookery
Plancius in the ice Flying penguin!

Back on the Plancius, the team settled in for a fantastic outdoor BBQ on the back deck.  This meal had been expertly cooked by hair dyer aided chefs. The meal had the added bonus of free wine and beer.  Simon and Ang mingled with the other racers, until they were suddenly handed a surprise challenge by Andrew Bishop, the Australian Geologist and Camping guide. This task required the team to camp overnight on snow at Damoy Point.

Easy BBQing with a hairdryer in the Antarctic Various smiling team Australias (and a snooty team America)
Non-local produce

After putting on more clothing, the team jumped into a zodiac and zoomed off into the night.  They were deposited at the campsite after zigzagging their way through bergy bits and growlers.  As other exclusive race teams had also been given this challenge, Simon and Ang had to walk around until they found a free tent.  There they assembled their bedding and helped another solo Team America racer assemble his. The two teams then fell asleep to the sound of howling Antarctic wind.  Ang had a great night’s sleep and said later that “it was exactly how i imagined Antarctica to be, with howling winds, I could imagine being an explorer. Such a truly memorable night”.  Simon, owing to the wine he had drunk at the BBQ, needed to pee in the night.  This challenge was just completed by filling an emergency pee bottle right to the top.  Simon later said that ”it was cold and I’m just glad the bottle I had was just the right volume, otherwise it would have been disastrous”.

The campsite Inside the party tent

…To be continued.

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Bolivia 4: Tupiza

Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive Race, one team of two raced into the unearthly high Bolivian desert.  They left the town of Uyuni aboard a 4WD and spent four days, three nights travelling through some of the world’s most spectacular desert scenery before racing back to Uyuni.

Arriving in Uyuni late that afternoon, the team raced to the nearby bus office and bought a ticket on that evening’s 8pm overnight bus to the town of Tupiza.  After a quick farewell dinner with Team Organic Hobo, they were aboard, heading out of town.  Owing to the heavy afternoon rain, their bus soon stopped 45 min out of town at a swollen river crossing.  Their driver informed the passengers that they could not pass but would wait for the river to go down. Simon left the bus and visually checked the depth of the water, but could hardly see much in the evening gloom.  Returning to the bus Simon and Ang settled in to wait.

After what turned out to be a restless night that included a twelve piece impromptu Argentine bus band forming, to complete their own Exclusive Race challenge, and playing until two am, the bus driver finally consulted with the passengers at 9am the next morning as the river still was impassable.  Consensus was reached and it was decided to return to Uyuni for breakfast and long awaited use of a bathroom.  They would attempt to cross again in the early afternoon before any later afternoon storms could flood the road again.

Back in Uyuni, Simon and Ang quickly located a bathroom then ate breakfast before jumping back on the bus with the rest of the mostly Argentine passengers.  As their bus approached the blockage, it was clear that the water level had fallen, however it was unclear by how much.  The team was hopeful they would be able to get through otherwise they feared they would be eliminated.

Their bus arrived at the back of a queue that consisted of more trucks, cars and buses than earlier that morning.  The road remained impassable, so once again they settled into wait.  Simon commenced looking at alternative routes.  He managed to work out there was a chance to take a six hour detour north to the town of Potasi, change buses then head six hours south.  But in discussions with Ang, they realised this was probably a silly way to go.

Yep, that road is closed Watching flood water with the locals

About two and a half hours later, a particularly loud, hoarse speaking Argentine guy screamed out “una mapa de Bolivia por favour” (a map of Bolivia please).  He was quickly provided one and about twenty minutes later had worked out the same route that Simon had, and began chanting ‘Po-tasi! Po-tasi! Po-tasi!’, to drum up support for his detour.  He then started negotiating with the driver to get him to turn the bus around.  It was about at this point another double decker bus decided it could make the crossing (without anyone physically checking water depths in the raging current) and ploughed into the flood waters.

Blasting through, the double decker bus proved the way and soon others, including the team’s bus followed.  Hoarse Argentine guy remained quiet for a little while, then got back into the music jam session with the other Argentinean folk.  While they were almost fifteen hours delayed, by driving now during the day, the team was treated to more spectacular scenery, which they would have missed had the bus passed during the night bus.

Just like a chocolate milkshake, only flooding Everyone celebrates the crossing
Putting backpacks back under the bus Empty, but flooded Bolivia
Bolivian landscape at its best Like a matte painting!

Eventually after travelling through mind blowing canyons and countryside, the team arrived in Tupiza on dusk after almost twenty-two hours of travel.  They were given their next clue and owing to opening hours being 9-5pm, decided to find accommodation.

Tupiza building Velo shop, Tupiza
Local bike seat Andean sandals made of car/truck tyres
Dried chillies, Tupiza (oddly missing from restaurant menus) Dried pasta (present on all menus)
Small Bolivian market

Waking the next morning they were picked up and set off to complete the Tupiza Triathlon along with another Team Australia.  This event was a combination of a jeep tour, horseback riding and a downhill mountain bike.  Ang was excited by the prospect of more downhill mountain biking, but was fearful as she previously had bad experiences with horses.  Their jeep driver took them on a tour of the surrounding countryside that included spectacular rock formations and canyons.  They soon arrived at a ranch where they were put on horses for a three hour ride around some canyons.  Ang was informed she would be been given the most placid, friendly calm and slow horse, given her history of being thrown off a few, but this soon proved to be quite the opposite.

Panoramic rock formation during the jeep leg
Cutting in the rock wall Ouchy catcus!
We’re on horses! Bolivia’s wild central plains

Ang’s horse, sensing they were racing, took the lead of the herd.  It cantered on and off as it pleased and made sure no other horse would pass.  Simon tried to spur his horse on, but unfortunately it seemed broken, only cantering once during the ride out.  On the ride back, Ang’s horse was attacked by a rouge juvenile horse, which scared her and almost threw her off as her horse was buck kicking the juvenile.  But thankfully they were all able to canter on the downhill and returned to the corral with the only casualties being one of the other Team Australia’s iPhones being thrown from the horse (it sustained minor scratches only).  With this leg of the triathlon completed they all jumped back into the jeep and headed to the next task.

Unique rock formations Ang in the lead
Simon playing cowboy Racers on horses

Their final task of the Tupiza Triathlon was to complete the downhill mountain bike leg.  They were driven to the top of a long dusty dirt road.  After picking bikes the group set off.  Simon and a member of the other Team Australia took an early lead.  Unfortunately, the rough gravelly road caused the other guy to get a flat tire.  This left Simon alone to complete the final stretch.  Eventually the other team and Ang caught up.  Ang was particularly displeased as the standard of the provided bikes was less than those provided as part of the World’s Most Dangerous Road.  Simon thought later that single shocks should be banned from downhill off road riding, after the jarring but fun ride.

Traffic on the Bolivian downhill road Simon gets ready to ride
Giant Ang gets ready to ride
Fantastic Bolivian canyon panorama
Another canyon panorama
Bolivian downhill road panorama
Ang flys past and on to the finish line

Once all team members had rendezvoused at the bottom of the hill, they rode back through town.  There they received their final clue directing them to the pit stop for this leg of the race.  Arriving tired but happy, Ang and Simon were the first to check into the pit stop for this leg of the race.

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Bolivia 1: Puno to Copacabana

Simon

At breakfast, both Simon and Ang were excited.  With Puno’s proximity to the border with Bolivia, they knew they would soon be heading south.  Both thought that Bolivia, with its outdoor activities would be likely to provide great racing.

Stomachs full, the team prepared themselves for the challenges that lay ahead.  A clue was handed to them and they commenced racing, first to the bus station.  Arriving they quickly secured tickets, but they were then forced to wait three hours until two pm.  Annoyingly they were forced to listen to a bus tout screaming Arequipa Arequipa over and over again.  Ang got justifiably frustrated as the Arequipa bus wasn’t scheduled to depart until 4pm that afternoon and there is only so many times you can hear ‘ara ara ara areguipa’ and not go mad.

Thankfully, the team’s bus company finally organised a minivan to take the small number of passengers three hours south around Lake Titicaca to the border with Bolivia.  Driving out of Puno, both Simon and Ang were glad to leave as while there wasn’t really anything bad about the place, there was anything nice either.

The drive was relatively uneventful with the team taking in the beautiful lakeside scenery and listening to the remaining passengers, who were mostly Argentine, talk about everything from construction through to musica.

Arriving at the border, the team first had their departure card stamped and collected before they walked back to the passport control office in a separate building.  There they cleared immigration and walked back past the departure card office and up the hill towards an arch way.  Crossing into Bolivia, they completed customs formalities and were soon in a collectivo heading for the town of Copacabana.  Both Ang and Simon agreed that the whole experience was rather relaxed and laid back, and had the added advantage of pleasant scenery to look at while walking between control points.

Entry portal to another country

Arriving in Copacabana, the team walked up the hill and checked into their accommodation with wonderful water views.   Their clue required the team to visit the fabled birthplace of the Incas, the Isla Del Sol.  However, the ATM in Copacabana had issues accepting the team’s cards, meaning they would need to change USD (for a relatively bad rate).  After the day’s travelling and waiting, the team decided to have an early night and rest up.

Waking early, the team went down to the dock.  After a quick breakfast and a second attempt to withdraw money from the ATM, the team jumped onboard a super slow launch bound for the Isla Del Sol.  Simon was briefly concerned that the Island of the Sun would actually be the Island of the rain, as it showered for most of the journey north. The boat itself was so slow and potentially overloaded that it took an inordinate amount of time to reach the northern village.  When they finally did arrive, the team headed further north on foot as their clue required them to walk the island from north to south to receive their next clue.

Happy pig on the Isla del Sol
Dock panorama on the Isla Del Sol

After 20 minutes of walking, they arrived at a gate. There they were stopped by a guy wanting them to pay 10 sols for entry into a ruins site.  Both Ang and Simon agreed that while interesting, this was not part of the challenge and would only delay them.  Plus, they only had 14 sols with them after payment for breakfast and the boat so they could not afford to enter.  Instead, followed by a friendly Frenchman and Argentine girl, the team scrambled up a nearby escarpment and walked around the fenced area to the north.

After a further twenty minutes of walking, the group came to a junction.  There the lead Frenchman was asked to pay for entry to the ruins (which were directly ahead).  He politely refused, and along with the Argentine, Simon and Ang turned to walk south.  The rocky path followed the ridge line and was spectacular.

After about an hour of walking, the team spied a check point.  There two locals were manning a ticketing station alone on top of a hill.  They wanted to charge 15 sols for each person to walk along the path.  Simon and Ang didn’t have that amount of money due to their ATM and exchange issues and the guidebook making no mention of any fees other than boat transport.  After politely saying they had no funds, the two locals gave Simon and Ang entry tickets for five sols each (student rates) for the remaining 14 sols they had.

Simon and Ang continued, though annoyed they didn’t have the funds to pay, but grateful they were still able to do the walk.  They walked past a forest of introduced eucalyptus trees and covered the 10 kms to the next community in rapid time.  There they met the next check point, this time to enter the southern town on the island.  At first the lady didn’t seem to understand, but once Simon showed they didn’t have enough money on his person, she let them pass.  They walked through the southern village down to the dock in time to meet their return boat to Copacabana.

Inca statue to great travellers arriving at the Isla del Sol Temple of the Sun on the Island of the Sun

Racing back at less than 4 knots, the boat eventually returned them to the Copacabana dock.  There they received their next clue directing them to La Paz.  Unfortunately, after trying the second ATM in town, then reluctantly changing some dollars, they were only able to buy bus tickets for the next day, meaning they would need to spend the second night in Copacabana.  The rest of the afternoon was spent walking around town, enjoying a drink in the warm sun and then dinner.

Boating on Lake Titicaca
Panorama of the Copacabana foreshore

Waking, they witnessed the car blessing festival and enjoyed a leisurely brunch before they boarded the second of two buses bound for La Paz.

Square in the middle of Copacabana

…To be continued.

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