Galapagos 5: Santiago Island to North Seymore Island

7 January 20123 May 2012 Simon

Upon waking, the team found themselves in yet another stunning Galapagos location, James Bay on Santiago Island. They were once again ferried ashore. They walked along the trail and saw lots of birds, including finches that were friendly enough to land on cameras. Ang through these birds were very vain, but enjoyed the experience immensely.

Early morning Galapagos dew


One of Darwin’s friendly finches	These finches are not camera shy

After the short walk they arrived at a lava rock grotto and headlands. There they were able to see the usual assortment of lots of marine iguanas, sea lions and birds. For the first time they saw fur seals, which unlike the staffy like sea lions, which to Simon thought looked a little like sea rats.


Ang and Simon complete the Val Halen challenge	HDR marine iguana


Even more awwwwwww	Sleepy sea lion

With this challenge completed, the team made their way back to the landing beach. There they changed into their snorkel gear and wetsuits and entered the water. Snorkelling along the beach they saw the usual huge numbers of fish, swimming marine iguanas, sea lions, turtles, a ray and a huge friendly white tipped shark.

Surprisingly, the swim with marine iguana challenge is just as hard as the previous dolphin challenge

With the shark challenge completed, the team returned to the Eden and cruised to Rabida Island. Once again they were required to change in their snorkelling gear and enter the water at a location that Rubén called “a special place”. It definitely was special with the team seeing the usual huge assortment of sea lions, turtles, rays and fish. With this snorkelling completed, the team climbed back into the zodiac and were driving around a headland. There they entered the water and swam back towards the beach, hugging the coastline they saw blue footed boobies, heaps of fish and sea lions. Once they arrived at the beach the challenge was completed and they returned to the Eden.

Mighty frigate bird


Undersea community	Underwater racers!

Anchor was weighed and the Eden motored to North Seymore Island. Dolphins were seen on the way and Simon, along with some other passengers, sat on the roof to watch the sunset. Several frigate birds landed on the roof to catch a free ride back to their colony on North Seymore.


Another mighty frigate bird	Lazy pirate frigate birds hitch a ride

Soon the Eden arrived at the anchorage. White tipped sharks circled the boat as the team ate dinner and then spent the night.

…To be continued.

Galapagos 4: Isabela and Fernandina

6 January 20123 May 2012 Simon

Waking early, Team Australia joined the other passengers and boarded the zodiacs for the morning wildlife spotting challenge. The two boats motored out away from Eden out of Targus cove along the cliffs. Henry, the slightly crazed skipper of one of the boats, spotted a pod of whales in the distance, so both zodiacs raced in their general direction. After following the pod for a little while, the boats turned back to Targus cove.


Sunrise just outside of Targus cove	Pelican and boobie at dawn


Hunting whales challenge	Success! Whale spotted in front of Fernandina

Spotting a huge pod of dolphins, both zodiacs raced over to the northern entry to the cove. After driving around for about ten minutes, Rubén came up with the idea of bringing the morning’s snorkel forward. Both zodiacs raced back to the Eden, stopping briefly only to watch some mating turtles. The team quickly had breakfast and changed into their snorkel gear and were soon ferried back to the entry of Targus cove.


Dolphin swimming with the zodiac	Stunning fish or just mucking around?


Fornicating turtles	Clumsy and awkward sea turtle sea sex	Clumsy and awkward sea turtle sex

Jumping into the water, Ang and Simon, along with the rest of the group started swimming. Galapagos dolphins squeal then flee when humans enter the water. After thrashing their way for twenty metres or so in pursuit of the pod, the team stopped swimming and put their heads above water, realising the try and out swim dolphins challenge was too difficult to complete.

However, not wanting to give up, all teams climbed back into the zodiacs and attempted to try again. This time they were dropped into the path of the oncoming pod. This time, for those who entered the water first, the dolphins were very close. Simon, as one of the first to enter the water, saw several dolphins swim towards him, then turn as they got close. Afterwards Simon said “you could hear when everyone got into the water as the dolphins clicks and squeaks got louder, almost like they were saying ‘humans! Run!.. I mean swim!’”.

With the dolphins fleeing the cove, the team received their next clue and set about snorkelling along the cliff wall. This snorkel allowed them to see the usual huge numbers of turtles, sea lions and fish. This time they also saw penguins and a cormorant from above and below the water. Completing this challenge the team returned to the Eden and once again changed.


Another green turtle	Galapagos starfish

Back into the zodiacs they went and were shuttled over to the shore where they went for a short walk to spectacular lookouts over a lagoons, and huge lava field. Photographic tasks for this walk were to capture the elusive mocking birds. The team also read some of the graffiti that various sailors had written on the walls over the previous centuries. With time running short, Ang and Simon franticly tried to capture the mocking birds on the return to the zodiacs. They were not successful and had to wait out a short time penalty.


View towards Targus cove and neighbouring lagoon	Ghetto sea lions are legit

Little finchy, but sadly no mocking bird photo

After the time penalty was completed, they returned to Eden and anchor was weighed. The boat headed north in the direction of the island of Fernandina. This island is virtually untouched, volcanically active place and is the newest of all of the Galapagos Islands. There is only one tourist landing site on this island and the Eden was steaming directly for it. A delicious lunch was had en route.

Arriving at the island, the team and other passengers quickly readied themselves for the landing. As Fernandina is very remote, few cruise boats make this journey. However, larger vessels with up to 100 passengers do visit this site. One of these boats arrived at the anchorage soon after the Eden. So, in order to beat the hordes ashore and complete the walking through the Imps of Darkness challenge, Simon and Ang and the rest of the passengers raced to the zodiacs and over to the landing site. After a quick surprise ceremonial birthday dunking of another fellow Australian passenger by one of the crew, the group walked onto dry land. There they saw a huge number of marine iguanas, the usual assortment of sea lions, cormorants, and some rare hawksbill turtles. As they were walking around more marine iguanas arrived having finished their afternoon feeding.

Ellie gets dunked


Lava cacti and associated iguana	Chris from team Holland gets amongst the iguanas


Piles of iguanas in iguana town	Co-habitation at its best


Simon enjoying this leg immensely	Just like Godzilla, an iguana emerges from the sea

Their last task was to complete the Imps of Darkness challenge with Simon giving Ang a piggyback through a field of iguanas that had stationed themselves on and around the path to warm up. With this challenge completed, the teams returned to the Eden.

Simon later said “the marine iguanas are amazing. They start the day by trying to warm up in the sun. Once they are hot enough they swim out to sea where they eat algae and seaweed for up to thirty minutes then return to the beach to reheat and snort up sea salt. It was a magical, somewhat gross evil sight to see”.


Only thing cooler than a marine iguana is a marine iguana with a lava lizard on its tail	If nothing else, this says ‘metal’


Whiskers McWhiskers walks with an iguana	Brothers from different mothers

Back on board the Eden, a course was set for the northern tip of Isabela. Arriving at the dramatic location, the team once again changed into their snorkel gear and entered the water. Snorkelling along the shoreline the team saw an excessive number of turtles. There was that many that Ang lost count of the number and the team had to be careful not to swim into them as they snorkelled. Their snorkel route continued around the shoreline past blue footed boobies, cormorants and penguins. Rounding a headland, the team swam into a huge cave that was home to an angry bachelor sea lion. There they completed the challenge and received their next clue in the water. Back into the zodiacs they climbed and returned to the Eden for well earned snacks and drinks.

Ang is freezing, but happy at completing the challenge

Soon the Eden left Isabela and was motoring north for an eleven hour overnight sail to their next location.

… To be continued.

Galapagos 2: San Cristóbal to Santa Cruz

3 January 201220 April 2012 Simon

Waking early for New Year’s Day, the team raced to the dock. On their way they ran past a variety of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno citizens who were still revelling at 10am.

Sea lions sleeping off New Year’s excess

Once at the dock they waited for the Eden boat representatives and the rest of the passengers to arrive from the airport. Simon went in search of an open shop for breakfast, a hard challenge for the first day of the New Year. After much searching of the town, he found some breakfast yoghurt and raced back to the dock. On his return he had to run as the rest of the passengers for the cruise had arrived and were in the dingy waiting, ready to be shuttled to the boat.

Ang and Simon joined teams from Holland, Canada and the US. There was also another Australian team on their own exclusive race to complete the 11 initial passengers. Introductions were made once onboard the Eden.

After the safety briefing was completed and cabins assigned, the Eden motored to the nearby Lobos Island and commenced an amazing eight day tour of the Galapagos. Once the boat had arrived and the passengers were briefed, the team went ashore. They walked amongst the large sea lion colony, spied blue footed boobies, land and marine iguanas. Returning to the boat, the team donned snorkelling gear and entered the water. The fantastic array and sheer volume of marine life astounded Simon and Ang as they snorkelled. They saw huge green turtles, rays, lots of fish and sea lions.


Blue footed boobie	Awwww


More awwww	Baby chases mum, for more boobie


Marine iguana poses for the photo	Boobie on a rock


Ang gives the Galapagos the thumbs up	Marine iguana sunbaking

Check out these blue footed boobie booties

With the first snorkelling challenge completed, they returned to the Eden then back to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. Simon and Ang joined the other passengers that night ashore for a drink, and then later returned to the Eden. Whilst they slept the boat weighed anchor and motored overnight to Santa Fe Island.

The second day of the cruise began early. Simon and Ang awoke to find the Eden anchored alone in the Santa Fe anchorage. After a quick breakfast everyone went ashore for a short walk through the vegetation. On this walk the team saw a different species of land iguana, giant Galapagos tree cacti, birds and of course more sea lions. At one point, the team engaged in a rather serious discussion with other teams about the classification of one type of Darwin’s finches, the medium finch (when does it become a large finch?). After completing this walk the team returned to the Eden, changed into snorkelling gear and entered the water.


Galapagos giant cacti tree	Baby sea lions with their babysitter and number one predator

Once in the water, Simon and Ang were again amazed at the huge variety and carpets of fish, massive green turtles and the playful sea lions returning from their morning fishing. With this task complete, the team returned to the Eden and were soon motoring to their next destination, South Plazas Island.

Arriving between the South and North Plazas, the team once again boarded the two zodiacs and went ashore to South Plaza. This island is roughly rectangular in shape and rises on the southern side to an impressive cliff. The walking tour of this island commenced amongst sea lions and marine and land iguanas (again from different sub-species) and then climbed to the southern side of the island. The walk up to the top of the cliff was through a forest of giant cactuses and a carpet of red plants that Ang commented “It looks just like coral”.

Sea lions have the longest whiskers of all lions

South Plaza landscape panorama

A panorama of the waters between North and South Plazas

Arriving at the top of the cliff, the team took in a David Attenborough-esk sight of thousands of birds, frigate birds and tropic birds wheeling and flying around in the high winds. After taking in the scene with awe, the team followed their guide, Rubén, along the top of the cliff face, past the bachelor male sea lions and back down to the shore on the northern side of the island. Walking along the highly polished stones from thousands of years of sea lion use, the team returned to the rocky pier and on to the Eden. The Eden then cruised to Puerto Ayora where they stayed overnight.


Racers pause for a photo	Land iguana waiting for a cacti flower fall to eat


Cacti flower	South Plaza vegetation

Land iguana, almost a dinosaur


Tropic birds	Ballet dancers of the sky


Name of bird unknown	Frigate bird getting a free ride on the Eden

Waking early the next morning, Simon and Ang, along with the other Exclusive race teams, went ashore and walked to the Darwin Centre. The purpose of this visit was to see the giant tortoise breeding program and to say hello to Lonesome George and his two concubines. They walked around the hot grounds, visited George and said hello and greeted many other giant tortoises and land iguanas.


Lonesome George gorging himself	Little baby giant tortoises

Smooth bill anis

After a brief lunch back on the Eden, the passengers were joined by another Team, this time from Switzerland. They then all boarded a mini bus and made their way into the highlands of Santa Cruz. Arriving at the private rancho, the team first walked into a lava tube and then around the grounds where they saw many giant free-range tortoises. Ang said “ they are absolutely huge! just incredible, like ancient wrinkly weathered half soccer balls with heads”


Racers behind a giant tortoise	Ang sneaks up on an unsuspecting tortoise


Tortoise and the tree	Tortoise gorging on grass during lunch

With this task completed, the team returned once again to the Eden for dinner, then walked around town and used the free Redgal wifi from the aft mid level deck. Soon the Eden weighed anchor and set sail for Isla Isabela as the team slept.

Eden’s dinning room

….To be continued.

Galapagos 1: San Cristóbal

1 January 201217 April 2012 Simon

Early the next morning the team boarded a fast 600hp speed boat for the journey to San Cristóbal. They arrived in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno two hours later after a rapid thrill ride. Quickly they sourced accommodation and then headed out to walk around town. As this was the last day of the year, many people were letting off fireworks, so it gave the place a warzone carnival atmosphere.

Panorama of Pelican Bay, Puerto Ayora

Depressed bird


Random papier-mâché creature	Yellow bird

Where is Mario?

After reading their next clue, the team set off on foot to Playa Mann. There they watched the sunset and sea lions playing. Whilst they sat on the sand, they were approached by two inquisitive baby sea lions. In keeping with the two metre rule, the team backed away, but the sea lions gave chase. The team watched the sea lions frolicking until the sun set. This completed this challenge and the team were given the next task and returned to the centre of town.


Baby sea lion and mother on Playa Mann	Another yellow bird

On the way back to the centre of town, the team were stopped by two cross-dressed Ecuadorians. It was unclear why they were cross dressed, but as is normal for this part of the world, from midday 31 December to midday 1 January, children and adults are traditionally allowed to stop pedestrians in the street with passage only given once a contaminación toll is paid. The amount is any coins, so it is necessary to carry enough small change to get where you need to go. The team was lucky to have a few 5c pieces and good humour, so were able to pass by the many tolls without much issue.

The Team is still not entirely sure what Contaminacion means

Another Ecuadorian tradition is to write two long posters. One outlines the good things that you hope will pass in the future and the other outlines the bad things that have happened in the past. Ecuadorians also make a papier mache character to accompany the messages that represent all the bad things that have happened in the previous year. All around the town there were many such characters waiting for the New Year.


Ecuadorians lover their papier-mâché	Yogi says ‘hola’


Ecuadorians love smurfs	More smurfs and this time Taca airlines


Another display, this time with a garden theme	A diver ready to dive into a fire


A ship with end of year messages ready to be set alight	Yogi bear on car (this guy would escape getting burned for some reason)

Smurfs and African animals live together perfect harmony in Ecuador

The team had a nice meal then joined the crowds of locals walking along the waterfront and the streets watching buskers and socialising, and reading the New Year’s messages. As midnight approached, the intensity of the fireworks increased. Soon semi-professional fireworks were being released in the town square, into the sky and occasionally into the crowd. Then, at midnight and without any countdown, locals set fire to their characters to ring in the New Year all across town.


A semi professional Ecuadorian fireworks display	One minute after middnight

Bonfires in the street to see in the New Year

The team’s challenge was to photograph as much of this as possible, avoid being injured by the explosives that were thrown into the burning piles and help burn any blown away parts of remaining characters. Much feliz años nuevo was said and with these challenges completed the team made their way to their accommodation to rest ahead of the next part of this leg.

… To Be Continued

Ecuador 4: Salinas to the Galapagos Islands

30 December 201115 April 2012 Simon

Taking advantage of their early, first place departure from the pit stop, Simon and Ang had a quick breakfast before they once again jumped in a collective taxi to head down from the mountains. Ang had developed headaches from the altitude, so the timing was perfect.

The truck ride down the hill was along the winding Salinas road and caused Ang to be motion sick once they finally arrived in Guaranda. There, after Ang recovered, the team raced to the bus terminal and boarded the first bus to Guayaquil.

The ride took the team through some spectacular mountain scenery and small quaint looking mountain villages. The bus driver seemed adverse to any sort of speed, even when the road was clear of the thick fog. However, once the low plain was reached, the bus picked up speed, passing most traffic as it raced west to the coast to make up lost time.


Guayaquil suburb	Stilt houses outside of Guayaquil

Roundabout art

Arriving in Guayaquil, a hot dusty and dangerous port city, Simon and Ang took a taxi to a hostel in the centre. There, afer checking into their accommodation, they took a short walk along the boardwalk and had a dinner that included a big ball of plantain and cheese. After completing this challenge, the team were given their next clue and were directed to make their way to the Galapagos Islands.


Iguanas escape people in a central park of Guayaquil	A tall ship on the waterfront


Guayaquil firestation	The reason why Guayaquil is dangerous – the kids learn young

Early the next morning the team raced out to the airport where they checked into the first available flight to the Galapagos Islands. The flight was rapidly completed and the team’s plane landed at Baltra airport. Strict entry formalities were completed and fees paid. The team boarded the shuttle to the Itbacca channel where they then boarded a ferry for the short ride, complete with sea lions, across to Santa Cruz. Once there, they were the first and only team on the first bus to depart for Puerto Ayora.

Arriving in Puerto Ayora in the hot early afternoon, the team were given the task of finding suitable accommodation. After walking around, the team located Galapagos Dreams, a small boutique hostel run by the super friendly local upcoming business identity, Jonathon. The team shared lunch with Jonathon and were then given their next clue. They were to find and book a cruise with the Eden boat.

With the town of Puerto Ayora mostly closed as it was the day before New Year’s Eve, the team settled for the first open agency recommended by the guidebook. They rapidly completed arrangements and agreed a payment plan as the ATMs on the island all had small withdrawal limits.

With this task completed, the team had drinks with four members of Team Canada. They then all returned to Galapagos dreams where they climbed to the roof of the main building via a wonky homemade ladder and enjoyed the second last evening of the year.

On the roof of Galapagos Dreams

To be continued…

Colombia 1: Cartagena

9 December 201118 February 2012 Simon

After the necessary rest period, Simon and Ang were once again the first to depart the pit stop. Their first challenge was to explore the city of Cartagena. They walked around the old bright and colourful town, photographing the various old colonial buildings.


Colonial Cartagena	Cartagena street

Renovations Cartagena style

Later that evening, they met up with a mixed team of three Brits and an Aussie and swapped notes on the previously leg’s cruise from Panama. It was clear that Team Australia had been lucky enough to get the better boat and crew as the stories from the other team were a tad concerning. After an average meal, both teams received their next clue.

With the food challenge complete, both teams were set a challenge to have cocktails in Colombia. To complete this, both teams went for two for the price of one happy hour drinks at a nearby bar. Strangely, these turned out to be two for one per person drinks. After twenty minutes of concern, Simon was successfully able to negotiate to have this misunderstanding reversed.

Completing the food and drink challenges, the teams were given their next clue and headed across the road to the Hostel Media Luna to take part in the Noche de Velas celebration. There they were joined by the original Team Ireland and some members of the One World crew on the roof top terrace bar. The next drink challenge at this point of the race was for Simon to try aguardiente. This drink is a a local alcoholic spirit made from sugar cane and flavoured with aniseed and which apparently comes with “a hangover that will make you lose the will to live”. Team Australia reluctantly drank the cup of foul liqueur and received their next clue. Clem from Team Ireland bizarrely enjoyed the drink and went back to the bar to get a second glass.

Cartagena plaza panorama

Team Australia’s next clue called for Simon and Ang to take a day trip to nearby Playa Blanca. They consulted with reception at the hostel and were booked on a ferry ride to the Playa. This unfortunately included a stop at the Isla De Rosas, where the main attraction is a crappy 1970s era aquarium. After a lengthy disorganised wait, the team boarded the last launch to leave the docks. They sped out of the harbour and around the headland to their first stop, the Isla de Rosas. There they were deposited at the aquarium without explanation as to when pick up would be. Thinking they would only have 20-30 minutes, they amused themselves taking photos of the Christmas decorated fibreglass marine life and chatting with other tourists. An hour and a half later, they finally located their boat, which had randomly and more interestingly gone off snorkelling at a nearby reef.

Cartagena fort panorama

Twenty minutes later the team was back in the speedboat and flying over the ways towards Playa Blanca. A delicious fried fish lunch was quickly consumed and the team set off to walk the length of the stunning Caribbean beach. Simon and Ang spent the rest of the afternoon swimming and lazing on the sand before they were given their final clue for this leg of the race.

Playa Blanca

They quickly made their way back to their watertaxi and were soon back in Cartagena. That evening they had a fantastic dinner at a local seafood restaurant then they headed back to the hostel for the final roadblock for this leg of the race, to complete a salsa class.

Simon was nominated to complete this task and was soon learning the rather complicated moves of what turned out to be an advanced salsa class. Over the next hour and a half a 2 minute routine was learnt and Simon finally completed the challenge.

Simon completes the salsa challenge

With this final task completed, Team Australia were given their final clue and made their way to the pit stop for this leg of the race, Old Town Cartagena.

Panama 3: Sans Blas Cruise

7 December 201112 February 2012 Simon

Previously on the Amazing Exclusive race, one team of two raced to the town of Portobelo, Panama. There they spent the night before racing resumed in the morning.

On waking, Teams Australia and Ireland walked around Portobelo then were shuttled by Jeff from One World in their dingy to the third fort on the other side of the harbour. They climbed to the top of the hill and investigated the ruins. Then it was off to the hidden beach around the other side of the headland for a quick dip. That evening, along with the addition of Teams from Germany and Switzerland, all passengers made their way onto the One World. Luggage was stowed, safety briefing given and to apocalyptic music, they set sail.

Panorama of the lower level of the eastern Portobelo fort

Panorama of the upper level of the eastern Portobelo fort

Hidden cove just outside of Portobelo harbour

The One World is a 64 foot schooner that was purchased by three Americans for the purpose of sailing around the world as part of their own Amazing Exclusive Race. The boat is a newcomer to the Panama-Colombia backpacker route, but brings professionalism seen on few other boats.

Leaving Portobelo port, the passengers and crew chatted as the ship made its way through the night. Sail was set once they cleared the headlands and about one hour into the night Ang became seasick and would remain so until the vessel dropped anchor the next morning in the calm waters of the Sans Blas. Simon would later call this “part one of Ang’s all night and all day puke-a-thon”.

Early the next morning One World arrived at a calm anchorage between two stunning Sans Blas islands. Receiving their clue, Simon, along with members of the other teams set off with local Kuna personality Raul to complete the spear fishing task. Ang wisely opted to rest, swim and walk around the Island owned by the President of Panama and inhabited by a local well known Kuna Drag Queen.

Panorama of paradise, Sans Blas

The first stop on the spear fishing challenge was a tiny cliché of a tropical island. There Simon, along with the other teams, entered the water and looked for fish large enough to spear and eat. Raul, being an island resident and potentially part fish, was able to acquire conch and a small reef fish. After 30 minutes, Raul, somewhat hyperactively decided the spot was no good and drove the dingy to the next location. There everyone once again entered the water and commenced looking for fish.

Another Sans Blas island Panorama

Simon had one shot at medium sided reef fish, and missed, before being co-opted into helping Raul hunt barracuda. Despite two attempts, including one where Raul jumped back in the water to chase after and wing a barracuda that Simon had spotted on his swim back to the dingy, the only fish speared was Raul’s earlier reef fish. Later in the afternoon, after lunch, they attempted again. This time Raul was able to shoot a trigger fish and corner a grouper, but unable to land. Simon had his second shot at a suitable sized reef fish, but was unable to spear it. However, Raul seemed happy to have had the support to hunt the grouper, and provided Simon with the next clue. This would require Simon and Ang to attend a beach BBQ by the water in front of Raul’s grass hut.

Kuna vendors

All the Sans Blas islands look the same… stunning

Another clichéd tropical Sans Blas island

Returning to the One World, all passengers and crew went across to Raul’s island for a BBQ on the beach. There they ate reef fish stew and Simon was provided with a whole fresh reef fish. Raul was true to form and provided a hyperactive dinner service wearing only his underwear and a head torch. Teams were able to purchase various drinks from the scatted huts in the dark with most enjoying a propane chilled beer or Don (Mr) Simon tetra packed wine provided by the resourceful Raul.


Ang suffers from sea sickness at the beach BBQ	The teams enjoy the Kuna beach BBQ

With most teams nearing the finish of their meals, Raul decided there needed to be a bonfire, so he rustled up a bunch of dry palm leaves and set them alight while the passengers and crew of One World stood around and watched. Being dried palm leaves, they were quickly immolated. Perhaps out of a bizarre need to entertain or simply due to the Kuna’s incredible enthusiasm for all things hammock, Raul’s last bit of entertainment was showing the passengers and crew his dog in a hammock.


Palm inferno	The team drinks some Don Simon

With the beach barbeque challenge completed, the racers received their next clue and the next morning after a couple of swings from the yard arm, were on their way to their next destination, the Kuna Town of Cali. On this stretch of sailing, the task of helming the boat was given to Simon to complete. After roughly an hour, Simon was able to steer the One World on the correct heading to Cali, successfully avoiding any reefs. There the professional sailors took over and brought the ship to anchor.


The view from the cabin aboard the One World	Captain Simon takes the helm of the One World for a bit

Receiving their next clue, Teams Australia, Ireland, Germany and Switzerland, along with Jeff from the crew were shuttled to the Kuna Island. There they made their way down one of two main streets to the Kuna museum. Unfortunately the interpretation guide was out of town on a fiesta, so the limited Spanish of the teams was used to read the displays before everyone set out for the second challenge of this visit. This challenge was to circumnavigate the island looking for souvenirs, photographic subjects, internet or bread, depending on which exclusive race each team was on. Team Australia was tasked with taking photographs, which they completed rapidly.


Kuna lady	Kuna hut


Kuna washing	Kuna gato

Kuna braclets


Ang with Catherine from Team Ireland	Ang enjoys the tropical vibe

With all teams completing their respective race tasks, the One World departed for the next location, another stunning Island in the Sans Blas. This island had, for reasons not entirely clear initially been abandoned by the Kuna as while huts were visible from the boat at anchor, no people were. Team Australia received their next clue and set off swimming to investigate the abandoned huts. After swimming the 200m to shore, the team along with representatives from Ireland, Switzerland and Germany, walked around the cluster of empty huts and the stunning shoreline. Many photographs were taken before they all returned to the boat for yard arm swings, showers and yet another fantastic dinner onboard the One World.


Another cliché of a Sans Blas island	View of a Sans Blas hut from the water


Hermit crab on the beach	Simon, along with other races enjoys the late afternoon sun


Ang yard arm swings off the boat	Simon has a turn on the yard arm

Sunset from next to the One World

For the last day of cruising in the Sans Blas, the One World was sailed a short distance to yet another gorgeous trio of Sans Blas islands. These islands, to paraphrase the Panama Cruising Guide, all looked the same… stunning. With Ang at the helm for her turn at driving, the One World soon arrived at the cluster. The professional sailors once again guided the boat into anchorage located at the centre of these three typical stunning Sans Blas islands.


Ang poses for a during race photo whilst driving	Another pirate ship in Sans Blas


a classy knot in the Sans Blas	Kuna gardening

Once again, teams swam from the One World the short distance to shore to a Kuna souvenir hut, where a bartering challenge was completed. Others set off to circumnavigate the short distance around the island and simply enjoy the setting. This was One World’s first visit to these particular islands and the teams agreed that these were particularly attractive. The rest of the afternoon was spent swimming, yard arm swinging, showering on deck and relaxing to prepare for the next challenge.


Kuna taking the family yacht for a spin	The Kuna leave lobster like this as a warning to others

After the heavy seas of the first overnight journey, Ang and Simon were not looking forward to the crossing from Sans Blas to Cartagena. Sea sickness medication was taken and in the evening the One World weighed anchor and departed the Sans Blas. Course was set to cross to Colombia, and was expected to take approximately 36 hours.

Ang isn’t enjoying the crossing

The next 36 hours of racing were the worst seas seen yet. The first night saw Team Australia separate as Ang was unable to go below deck to sleep. She opted to stay up on deck with another Angela from team Switzerland who also was suffering from seasickness, in support. Simon, who was slightly less affected by seasickness, was able to get a few short hours of sleep before returning to find Ang on deck, though now shivering, soaking wet and still spewing.

Many times during this arduous journey the One World was joined by dolphins and hundreds of flying fish. While Ang didn’t eat, Simon was able to enjoy the tasty meals cooked under what could only be described as difficult cooking conditions as for stability, the One World was permanently keeled thirty degrees over to one side.

For the final night Ang was finally able go below deck and aft, to sleep in the bed given up graciously by Stefan. Both Simon and Ang tried to sleep as much as they could. Ang still felt seasick and Simon was slightly as well, but needed to sleep while holding onto the wall on account of the tilted angle of the boat. Otherwise he would roll on top Ang. Eventually daylight came on the final morning.

Unfortunately, owing to the wind and an inconveniently located island, they were four hours later than estimated coming into Cartagena. Seas by this stage had smoothed out and Ang was able to eat for the first time in a day and a half. They entered Cartagena harbour and soon the One World arrived at the Yacht club. Luggage was collected from the hold and the teams then travelled by dingy then taxi to a hostel in the Old Town of Cartagena.

Cartagena panorama

The crew and passengers of the One World

There they checked into the pit stop for this leg of the race and earned a much needed rest.

In the post leg interview, a tired Ang and Simon gave their thoughts. Ang said “I’m so glad that’s behind me and to be on dry land! That was the worst time of my life and stomach acid is so painful. Despite the agony and tears I’m so glad to have seen the stunning Sans Blas. It’s heavenly! I just never want to do an open sea crossing again!” Simon commented that “while the weather was not the best during the crossing, we lucked out with our time in the Sans Blas as it was completely magic and our boat, the One World and crew were great. Those guys [the crew of the One World] made the crossing much more bearable. We’ve spoken to other teams on their own exclusive races who are also here in Cartagena and the horror stories they told us about their crossings and in particular the quality of their boats and captains (or lack thereof), made us glad we picked the right one”.

Panama 1: Bocas Del Toro

30 November 201126 January 2012 Simon

Exiting the pit stop early, Ang and Simon were joined by Simon, the remaining half of Team Belgium last seen in León, and another Team Israel. Together they walked over to the bus station where they waited for the bus to the border.

Soon, all teams were on a bus travelling through kilometre after kilometre of banana plantation. They arrived at the quiet northern border and completed Costa Rican formalities before crossing a rickety old rail bridge to the Panama side. Simon remarked “that it was coolest crossing in a while, mainly because it was so unsafe. They crazily even drove a semi over it”.

On the Panama side, immigration was completed with no real difficulties, other than the staff wondering why Ang did not have a Panamaian flag on her backpack. A shared taxi was negotiated for a 50% reduction in the fare and team raced into Panama.

After an hour long ride they were deposited at Almirante where the team boarded a water taxi for the ride to Bocas Town, the largest settlement in the Bocas Del Torro Islands. Without having any accommodation booked, the team walked around town and checked out the accommodation options. By doing this, they were able to discover that a hostel had recently opened on the Island of Bastimentos. They quickly booked this accommodation and then purchased some supplies. Team Belgium, also received this clue and joined Team Australia on the water taxi to Bastimentos.


At the ferry dock near Almirante	Banana ship


A lot of crane for such a small island	Main street, Bocas town

They arrived at the water taxi dock and walked into the centre of the island where they checked in and raced to the beach. There the Simons and Ang completed the swim at Red Frog beach challenge then, after spotting Team Ireland in the back of the shuttle truck, they enjoyed drinks and snacks at the nearby Punta Lava beach bar and grill.


Wildlife outside of the dorm	Red frog beach from the bar

Their next challenges were to survey the beaches of Bastimentos and to spot red frogs in the wild. Once again both teams set off to Red Frog Beach, then headed north. Soon they were in a muddy rainforest area where they spotted tens of red frogs. After completing this part of the challenge, the teams continued working their way along the coast until they arrived at the spectacular Wizard beach.

Panorama of Wizard beach

Simon takes a break from racing on Wizard beach

Not wanting to retrace their steps, the team headed across the island to Old Bank town, where they negotiated a water taxi ride back to the hostel dock.


Old Bank town flower	Old Bank town trike

The next day the team continued their survey of the beaches of Bestimentos by heading east.


Ang crosses a jungle stream	Plantain flowers

Abandoned beach bar

Panorama of a little cove east of Red Frog beach

Simon from Team Belgium follows close behind

Rainbow panorama

With the Bocas Del Torro challenges completed, the team rested for the remainder of the evening, socialising with Team New Zealand and a combination Team from Canada and Sweden.

Waking early the next morning, along with Team New Zealand, Simon and Ang raced via water taxi back to Bocas Town. They then said goodbye to Team New Zealand and walked to the airport. There, twenty minutes before departure, they purchased tickets for a short flight to Panama City. Again after removing excess weight from their check in luggage, they were on their way.

Flying into Panama City the team took in the view of the hundreds of ships waiting to enter the lock. They took a taxi ride through the congested streets to their hostel in the old town. There they met up with Team Ireland, and received their next clue to make their way to the Miraflores lock.


Ships waiting to enter the canal	The view from the hostel towards Panama City

Owing to the previous accommodation requiring the air conditioning be on 24/7, both Simon and Ang were unwell. Ang opted to remain at the hostel to rest while Simon set off to complete the task. After two bus rides, Simon, along with Teams Ireland and America 3 arrived at the locks. Their timing was perfect and they were able to watch three ships transition the locks before they returned via taxi to the hostel.


Miraflores lock	Ships in the lock

Miraflores lock panorama

There at the hostel Team Australia checked into the pit stop for this leg of the race. Once again they arrived in first place. To celebrate, they had an excellent dinner of sushi and traditional deep fried Panama fare before returning to their accommodation for the optional rest period.

Nicaragua 5: Ometepe Island

20 November 201131 December 2011 Simon

Simon and Ang left the pit stop early and made their way three blocks south to the bus terminal, which once again was in the centre of a crowded market. Acting on three pieces of separate timetable information, the team arrived with plenty of time. Unusually for Central America, they then had to wait for 45 minutes before their bus departed for the town of Rivas.

Chickens in the Granada markets

The ride to Rivas was a standard chicken bus ride and soon they were in town. There they jumped into a taxi and were deposited at the ferry terminal in San Jorge. After an hour’s wait, they boarded an old weathered ferry with chicken bus seats for the ride to the Island of Ometepe.

Chicken boat

The island of Ometepe is a unique volcanic formation located in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. It was formed by two large active volcanoes (Concepción and Maderas). Simon commented that “they would be just like two fried eggs when viewed from space”. The island is connected by private and government run ferries.

The team rode on the old private chicken boat ferry across the rough lake. The crew was engaged fully in the transit, regularly pumping the bilge by hand and acting on bell messages from the captain. The slow hour long crossing was competed without sinking and the team arrived at Moyogalpa. They then jumped on an ancient chicken bus to Altagracia on the eastern side of the island. Just before Altagracia they jumped off the bus at El Quito and commenced walking towards Santo Domingo. They soon gained a ride in a tourist van to their destination.

Concepción making clouds

In Santo Domingo, the team found accommodation and later met up with Team Ireland. Whilst they waited for the next phase of the race, they spent the afternoon and evening socialising. They also tried to avoid being bitten by sand flies and attempted to find out where the party was at in the super quiet town. They received their next clue early the next morning and set off on foot to the town of Santa Cruz a few kilometres away to the south, walking along a road that in parts was only sandy.


Helpful evacuation signage	Bird on a hut as the storm approaches

After a 45 minute march with their gear, the team checked into their next hostel in the small community of Santa Cruz. Their new accommodation had slightly fewer sand flies and a fantastic view of Concepción volcano to the north.

Ometepe goats heading towards Santo Domingo

After checking in, the team attempted to locate Team Ireland. They checked several accommodations, but were unsuccessful. They did however manage to negotiate a free ride in a tourist van to the Ojo de Agua. The afternoon was spent swimming and rope swinging into the cool water. Completing this task the team set off with Simone from Team Switzerland for an early meal of Tostones con Queso. Completing this challenge the team travelled by bus back to Santa Cruz and made a final attempt to locate Team Ireland at a nearby Irish run bar and hostel. Unfortunately they were unsuccessful, so they returned along the dark sandy road to their accommodation where they checked into the pit stop for this leg of the race.

Panorama of the Ojo de Agua

Nicaragua 4: Granada

18 November 201130 December 2011 Simon

Once again Simon and Ang were the first to depart from the pit stop. They travelled on foot back to the dock on the western side of the island. Their they joined the mostly backpacker crowd waiting for the panga. Schedule departure time passed without the boat being seen. Twenty minutes later an engine roared into life from around the headland. The boat was speedily loaded and it disembarked from the dock.


An early start to this leg of the Race	Many pangas, few drivers

Panga filled with gringos, while locals are still asleep

This crossing was a nearly flat easy ride across the strait back to Big Corn. The team once again shared a cab to the airport, this time with Team Ireland 2 and once again almost emptied their backpack contents to meet weight limits which they carried as carry on.

Big Corn Island from the air

After another uneventful flight the team arrived back in Managua and negotiated a good deal for a 100Q cab ride back to the bus station. There they boarded a bus south to Granada.

Granada is perhaps the most touristy of all the towns in Nicaragua. The colonial streets and restored buildings are set around a flat tourist core. There the team arrived in the centre of town and made their way to their accommodation. There they met up with the original Team Ireland, who they had last seen in Tikal, Guatemala.

Sus pies or potentially sexist subtitling as the giant monkey king looks on

Challenges for this leg of the race included repairing damaged/worn clothing, climbing to the top of La Mercer Church for scenic views, eating in the top eating spots in the city, walking to the nearby shores of lake Nicaragua and swimming with beer in hand at the hostel pool. Lastly, the team completed the personal grooming challenge where Simon had a haircut and Ang a pedicure, at a local beauty salon with the combined costing less than $5.